Rising Star: Thando Ntuli

COMPILED BY Dumisani Mnisi PHOTOS Supplied

Fashion designer and founder of MUNKUS Thando Ntuli shares what inspires her creativity, the importance of a well-constructed garment and the philosophy behind her brand.

MUNKUS, by award-winning designer Thando Ntuli, is a South African luxury brand known for crafting timeless ready-to-wear pieces. Celebrating individuality and womanhood, MUNKUS creates clothing for all age groups, inspired by the classic silhouettes of South Africa in the 1980s and ’90s.

My typical workday isn’t really structured. I’m more of a night owl than an early bird simply because evenings are quieter, and I tend to focus better then. Mornings involve checking emails and prioritising work according to what needs attention at that moment. It could be speaking to CMT (who manufacture clothing for us) or to an illustrator to ensure they have everything to keep the projects going.

My favourite design destination is Japan. The Japanese produce everything within their own country. Also, everyone tends to dress well because it’s a resource they have access to. Their use of silhouettes and layering, inspired by their traditional attire, translates into everyday clothing and style.

Construction makes a garment well-designed. I feel that fashion is one of the few creative fields that combines several disciplines into one, from architecture and textile design to illustration and sketching. A good designer is one who can push the mark in terms of structurally creating something that’s cool and innovative but still maintains functionality.

I love the pieces of corsetry that I’ve designed. They include boning – an ancient design technique used to create structure and shape in a garment. The detail and skill required to create this cannot be overlooked. One of the very first pieces MUNKUS was recognised for included boning.

The quickest way to elevate an outfit is by layering. It forces you to be creative with what you have, because you must come up with new ways to wear the same pieces daily.

If money was no object, I would treat myself to a space that pushes my creativity by just being in it. It could be a building or a room – but the design and energy of that space would awaken my creativity and inspire fresh perspectives in my craft.

My design philosophy is to create clothing that transcends age groups – clothes that are worn because they encourage individuality, and not because they’re fast trends. This is inspired by how I grew up, thrifting clothes from family members and making them my own.

I approach fashion from a perspective of originality and functionality. I always try to push myself to create something new from what I’ve designed before; it keeps things interesting. As a designer in today’s climate, sustainability is constantly front of mind.

I’m currently working on projects with smaller campaigns. It could mean two or three items dropping every few months. Each campaign drop would be part of a series – an “episode” that speaks to the rest of the collection. By the end of 2024, the releases should tell a story; all the shoots from each campaign will make sense in the long run.

I use social media to keep up with current fashion trends and changes in the industry. It’s also allowed us to reach a target market that was not accessible before. In the past, it was all about connections, your place in society, your location. Everything was gatekept – and social media has closed that gap. | munkus.co.za

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