Golden eye

WORDS Nechama Brodie

Lees in Afrikaans.

From peddling bracelets on the beaches of Cape Town to presenting seasonal collections at New York and Paris fashion weeks, South African jewellery designer Zoja Mihic is carefully etching out her own share of the lux market. She spoke to Nechama Brodie.

Those familiar with Zoja Mihic’s contrast-rich delicate and chunky trinkets can spot her distinctive work a mile off – gilded silver rings, earrings and neckpieces, usually set with one of her hand-selected rough-cut rainbow of gems such as chrysopase, amethyst, turquoise, citrine or peridot.

Travelling between Paris (where she studied), New York (where she recently moved) and India (where she has a workshop), Zoja still makes regular trips back home to South Africa where – shoppers rejoice – she has regular trunk sales in Joburg and Cape Town. She spoke to VISI from New York.    

You literally started your business on the beach? How did that happen?

When I was 17 I made myself some beaded bracelets. I wore them as a set and they turned out to be very popular. Everywhere I went people would ask me where they were from. At that time, I didn’t want anyone to have the same thing as me – write it off to youthful growing pains – so I told them they were a gift, or that I’d bought them overseas. Meanwhile, the beads were all sitting on a shelf at a bead store in Melville. At the same time, I’d just started my first year of university. I went to an economics class and was sitting in the auditorium when the lecturer explained the supply-and-demand curve and that’s when the proverbial “light bulb” clicked on. I knew there was demand. I had to provide the supply. I borrowed R800 from my brother and bought up all the stock from the bead shop. Then I spent several late nights beading the bracelets, with my mother, preparing for a trip I was taking to Cape Town together with my close girlfriends. I made my friends wear the bracelets and it wasn’t long before I was selling the bracelets to people off my beach towel. I sold them all, made money, had fun doing it… and I also paid back the loan. That’s how it all began.  

Tell us about the design and manufacturing process – what guides you when you’re creating a new collection?

I do two new collections each year – for spring/summer and autumn/winter. I design all the pieces. The creative element is the part I enjoy most. Sadly, in the grand scheme of business, it’s also the part I get to play in the least. The jewellery is manufactured in South Africa and at my small workshop in India. I head to India two to three times a year to source and select the gemstones. I have a passion for colour and I’m inspired by the natural tones found in gemstones. When choosing stones it’s important to know what you’re looking at, be clear about what you want. The rest, for me, is intuitive. When I start a new collection and see all the gemstones scattered in front of me, in my chosen palette for the season, I need to feel butterflies. If the butterflies in my belly don’t flutter I know there’s something wrong with the selection. 

You work mostly with silver gilt (silver coated or plated with gold) rather than fine gold. Was this an aesthetic or a commercial choice?  

Starting with silver and gold-plated pieces was the perfect playground to learn, discover and experiment… I also wanted to create pieces of jewellery people would not feel intimidated to wear. The idea was to bridge the gap between costume jewellery and fine jewellery. After all, all that glitters is not gold! In time, I will start with a fine gold collection. I believe that’s what I’ve been building myself up for. 

Your local trunk shows are a hit, you’ve sold jewellery to Anthropologie… How come there’s no Zoja shop yet? 

I’ve played with the idea of a retail store, however it still hasn’t come into fruition. It has its own set of constraints that, for the moment, don’t fit into my lifestyle, which is divided between three continents. My focus has been to develop new markets abroad, by presenting my line twice a year during New York and Paris fashion weeks. My jewellery can be found at retailers spanning from the United States to Japan, and many places in between. A branded retail store will come in the future, but the timing has got to be right as well as the place. What I love about the idea of a Zoja store is being able to create a universe for the brand, a place where people can get a sense of the full collection and experience the essence of what it’s all about. 

We kind of want to “own” you as a South African brand, but you’ve been steadily expanding your overseas presence. How does being a global citizen influence your designs? 

I sell in a number of countries, mostly to independent multi-brand stores or jewellery stores. I’m quite selective about the store, as I feel strongly that the jewellery line needs to sit well in the brand mix that a store has. 

Different markets buy different things – my finer, smaller pieces sell really well in Japan. The silk thread bracelets sell well in Latin American countries. In the US, the bigger, bolder pieces have more of an audience. I take all of this into consideration when I create a collection. I have a curious approach to a new collection – it is not entirely a creative process for me. I never studied jewellery design, or any design for that matter. I did an MBA in France and so the thinking instilled from that permeates a lot of my decisions. It is a good balance.  

Tell us about your latest collection…

My recent collection is a play on colour and contrast, inspired by an imaginary secret garden: plant and animal kingdom inspired jewels with flowers, bugs, snakes and other critters… There are unusual pairings of the semi-precious stone kaleidoscope, reflecting the mood of the autumn/winter season.

What else can we expect to see from you this year?

I’d like to do a small capsule collection in fine gold – my first. I’ve been planning this for some time, and I am excited about turning what’s in my mind into a piece I covet and wear, and hopefully others will want too. I also plan to start a men’s line – this will be a completely separate range and will have no affiliation or reference to my current ranges. I’ve made some pieces for men in the past. I’m told I have a knack for men’s jewellery, which I take as a huge compliment – it’s one of the hardest things to get right. 

To find out more about Zoja’s South African trunk shows, email info@zojajewels.com

More info: www.zojajewels.com