São Paulo Style

WORDS Jo Buitendach PHOTOS Paul R Burley (Auditório Ibirapuera); Jo Buitendach; Supplied

A visit to São Paulo left VISI’s contributing editor Jo Buitendach inspired by this Brazilian city’s art, design and architecture.

São Paulo is Brazil’s vibrant financial centre, and a frenetic melting pot of a metropolis, where wealth and poverty exist side by side. It’s a gritty urban space, known for its thriving contemporary art scene, striking design and a multitude of street art. It is also bursting with architectural gems, especially for fans of Brazilian Modernism who know their Niemeyers from their Bo Bardis. If you’re thinking of adding São Paulo to your travel bucket list, here is a round-up of some of its unmissable museums, must-see architecture, cool design stores and chic hotels.

WHAT TO SEE

The Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC) is housed in an architectural complex that was created by Oscar Niemeyer in the 1950s. Niemeyer is probably Brazil’s most celebrated architect, and a star of the global modernist movement. The museum has a collection of more than 10 000 works by international artists including Amedeo Modigliani and Joan Miró, as well as Brazilians Anita Malfatti, Tarsila do Amaral and Lygia Clark.

The Brazilian Museum of Sculpture (MuBE) is a dream for fans of striking architectural design and hefty amounts of concrete. Designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha in the mid- 1980s, the building – a sculpture itself – features a large concrete beam and partially buried platform. mube.space

For art and architecture buffs, the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) is unmissable. Located on bustling Paulista Avenue, the 1960s building – which is suspended above a public square – was designed by Italian-born Brazilian architect Lina Bo Bardi. One of the most significant Brazilian architects of the 20th century, she also designed the glass easels upon which the works are installed. The museum’s long-term exhibition, “Gallery in Transformation”, is an unbeatable introduction to Brazilian art. masp.org.br

Opened in 1954 to celebrate the city’s 400th anniversary, Ibirapuera Park is one of Latin America’s largest urban parks – and home to several Oscar Niemeyer-designed buildings. They have become key landmarks of modern Brazilian architecture, and include the Biennial Pavilion, the Auditório Ibirapuera and the Oca exhibition space.

The Afro Brazil Museum, located inside Ibirapuera Park, is also worth visiting – it contains 6 000 works related to black African and Afro-Brazilian culture, and is housed in another Oscar Niemeyer building. Make sure to catch a glimpse of the striking yet controversial modernist Monument to the Bandeiras at the entrance to the park. museuafrobrasil.org.br

Beco do Batman, or Batman Alley, is a pedestrianised area in the Vila Madalena neighbourhood, known for its colourful graffiti and street art. São Paulo has a thriving graffiti scene, and this bohemian area is the best place to see it. Definitely stop at A Sétima Galeria, a graffiti and street-art gallery, where you can buy a work by a local graffiti artist to take home. a7ma.com.br

Pinacoteca de São Paulo is situated in downtown São Paulo and houses a wide array of Brazilian art, including 19th- century sculptures, modernist works and contemporary art. The building itself is worth a visit: a beautiful juxtaposition of old and new, it was refurbed in 1993 under the watchful eye of Paulo Mendes da Rocha. pinacoteca.org.br

WHERE TO SPEND IT

At Dpot Objeto – an offshoot of Dpot, a store that sells contemporary Brazilian furniture – you’ll find smaller design objects by more than 200 artists, architects, artisans and folk artists. dpotobjeto.com.br

Atelier Carlos Motta was founded in 1978 by award-winning architect and designer Carlos Motta. He and his team design and make environmentally and socially responsible furniture and sculptures. The atelier is brimming with prototypes of his iconic work, including his most emblematic piece – the Asturias rocking chair. Made of reclaimed wood, the chair can be seen in the permanent collection of the Museum of Design and Fashion (MUDE) in Lisbon, Portugal. carlosmotta.com

Just downstairs from the atelier is Attom – a partnership between Carlos and his son, Diego. They develop sustainable, simple and sophisticated utility products, making Attom the perfect spot to pick up environmentally responsible pieces as a reminder of your holiday. These include handcrafted bowls made of reclaimed and FSC-certified wood. attomdesign.com

Marcenaria Baraúna is an architecture studio that designs and creates furniture and wooden objects, from start to finish. They take wood very seriously, focusing on its sustainability, feel, texture and colour. Baraúna also sells iconic works, such as the 1986 Giraffe chair designed by Marcelo Ferraz, Marcelo Suzuki and Lina Bo Bardi. barauna.com.br

Prototype is a home design brand that smoothly combines its Brazilian roots with an industrial aesthetic. The business was started 10 years ago by designer and architect Felipe Protti; the design items on show are a retro – but modern – melange of aluminium, leather and wood. prototypesp.com.br

WHERE TO LAY YOUR HEAD

If high drama and zany architecture are your thing, Hotel Unique is the obvious choice. The inverted arch-shaped building designed by innovative Brazilian architect Ruy Ohtake offers a masterclass in curated contemporary design, including the Boa sofa by the local Campana Brothers and the gravity-defying Charleston sofa by Dutch brand Moooi. The hotel’s rooftop Skye Restaurant & Bar offers breathtaking views of São Paulo, and a 25m-long crimson pool, which Wallpaper magazine voted as one of the best in the world. hotelunique.com

With interiors by Philippe Starck, Rosewood São Paulo is a glam oasis of a hotel, set in both a historic building and a striking new vertical tower by award-winning architect Jean Nouvel. Dining options include Blaise – a restaurant designed to look like a wooden chalet tucked away in a forest; and Rabo Di Galo – an old-school jazz club and cocktail bar with a dramatic hand-painted ceiling. rosewoodhotels.com

THE GUIDE

If you’re looking for a fantastic local guide, Renato Crestincov of Beeare Travel is the perfect choice. Whether you’re interested in admiring architecture and design, collecting art, or a little retail therapy, he can tailor your travel experience to your needs. renatocrestincov

KEEPING SAFE AND GETTING AROUND

São Paulo has a high crime rate, so keep your wits about you. Ask advice from a trusted local; try to keep the valuables you carry on you to a minimum; avoid walking alone at night; and only take registered taxis or Uber. The city is huge and traffic is a big issue, so always factor that in.

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