PHOTOS Eric Nathan WORDS Lauren Shantall
In one of the last authentic farm dorps in the Karoo, a lawyer in need of a creative outlet has used bold colours and stark whites to create a cheerful blend of rustic and contemporary holiday accommodation.
Deep in big sky country, where over-bright stars loom so close they appear within grasp, you can still find an off-the-beaten-track Karoo dorpie that’s home to a small farming community and the odd city-dweller on a detox. Until recently only reached by dirt road, Merweville quietly persists with its long unchanged sheep-farming ways, upholding tradition and somehow defying any encroaching poshness of post-urban settlers. Which is what appealed to Toby Orford when he looked to establish his SunnysideUp Karoo Café & Cottages.
The Karoo has always drawn Toby: “There are fond holiday associations with a farm outside nearby Beaufort West – and my parents’ home in Prince Albert,” he says. “I had never been to Merweville until I seriously started looking for Karoo property about two years ago. Karoo villages are often run down or have become too ‘gentrified’. Merweville however is still an authentic Karoo plaasdorp.”
Toby was lucky enough to come by a pigeon pair of twin cottages on the same erf that had been for sale for years. Having been more or less abandoned, they were unspoilt but very rundown and nobody, it seemed, wanted to take on the challenge. The first cottage had no plumbing, electricity or bathroom and was built from clay bricks with mud plaster, which had to be replaced. With only rudimentary plumbing facilities in turn, the second cottage was at least built with conventional bricks and cement plaster.
Once the building work was done, Toby veered away from a typical country look with cheerful purple and blue front doors. Inside, strong colours and contemporary interiors that employ modernist and mid-century pieces lend a singular and deliberately incongruous identity to SunnysideUp – this is not ordinary Merweville fare. “Although the Karoo landscape, with its ever-changing contrasts, colours and light, is always vibrant, the local people tend not to be,” posits Toby. “They don’t like bright colours including white – they defer to conventional beige, brown and cream choices.”
Still, “the lack of pretence and artifice is Merweville’s main asset,” Toby counters. “It is also the reason why it has an understated and underrated charm.” Ironically, most of the furniture comes from the surrounding area. “The mid-century modern pieces were one-off local finds in Merweville. The country and bohemian furniture and accessories are mostly from Prince Albert.” These were supplemented by pieces purchased online.
The way that Toby has thrown it all together reflects his passion for quality and attention to detail. For him, these are the things in life worth celebrating. For others he has created an appealing getaway, a cosy and cheerful base camp from which to answer the magnetic call of the Karoo’s stress-free near-nothingness. And with his partner, Petrus Croukamp, he has also opened the nearby SunnysideUp Karoo Café, where there is an emphasis on eastern Mediterranean cooking styles using Karoo ingredients. On summer evenings, you’ll find them on the generous length of the stoep. In winter, in front of the vintage Dover and Queen Anne stoves, where the contemporary shapes and colours sing loudly in their rustic environment, both stimulating and soothing at the same time.
082 554 4554, 072 392 3031, [email protected], sunnysideupkaroo.weebly.com

