PHOTOS AND WORDS Jacques Marais
Whether you camp, glamp, slackpack or live the van life, adventure writer Jacques Marais picks five hideaways you have to visit over the holidays.
WEST SIDE
Doringbaai to Groenrivier, Namaqua West Coast
The West Coast… way too much wine, and way too little time to drink all of it. Add an ocean brimming with fresh seafood, and you’re set for a memorable summer break. Here’s the rub, though: to escape the bakkie-and-beach brigade, you need to get way off the beaten track. The mining strip south of Namaqua National Park boasts ample unofficial campsites where you can pitch your tent right on the ocean’s edge, with only the roar of the Atlantic rollers to keep you company while you drift into the flame flicker zone of your campfire. Summers are balmy, with clear skies and sparkling blue ocean – and if you find the right spots, the surf really cooks.
PLACE OF MIRACLES AND WONDER
Utshwayelo, Kosi Bay
Thongaland constitutes a tiny sliver of paradise where the Elephant Coast nudges up against Mozambique. This section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park lies at the heart of the Thonga community, and the Utshwayelo Kosi Mouth Lodge and Camp is partly owned and run by the self-same warm-hearted locals. There can be few places on Earth with such a kick-ass combo of culture, cuisine and all-out adventure on tap. Paddle out onto the estuary with Thongaland Travel to kayak amid ancient fish traps, while fish eagles, flamingos and palm-nut vultures cruise the sky. Join a trail run or a mountain bike ride, and maybe add an afternoon snorkel or surf session – otherwise, just chill in your hammock with an ice-cold 2M beer.
DOUBLE FOR NOTHING
Double Mouth Nature Reserve, Wild Coast
A hop and a skip from the laid-back seaside village of Morgan Bay, right at the end of a clifftop jeep track, you’ll happen upon the idyllic Double Mouth lagoon. In my books, this is about as good as it gets. Perfect sets roll onto a mile-long stretch of pristine coast and deserted beach, where you can run or fat-bike for days towards Haga Haga and beyond. The campsite itself is in a beautiful spot, with the gorgeous estuary only seconds away from your tent.
STAR STRUCK
Rooikloof Guest Farm, Roggeveld
The Roggeveld unfolds along the edge of the agoraphobia inducing Great Karoo, and this is where you’ll find the starstudded little dorp of Sutherland. Just a few kilometres outside of town, on the edge of an elevated escarpment where the landscape tumbles to the lowland plains, lies a historic farm named Rooikloof. Hiking, biking, bird-watching and bush breakfasts will keep you busy, or you can go in search of your inner Zen with a forest yoga session. Book a cottage or pitch a tent – or, even better, get in touch with the glamping gurus at Hey Pioneer to kick up the glamour levels.
OVER THE MOUNTAINS
Buffeljags Dam, Overberg
Cradled within a verdant valley at the foot of the Langeberg ranges, Buffeljags is one of those secret treasures hidden in plain sight. Turn off the N2 just 12km east of Swellendam, and you’ll soon be plugging into the natural wonderland that is Umshanti. This private (and tiny) resort is set right on the edge of this pristine dam, with waterside camping spots where you’ll be able to kayak, fish, swim and waterski literally a step or two from your tent, before hitting the MTB and running trails.
Looking for more local escapes? Take a look at these off-grid tiny cabins and local destinations that are off the beaten track.
