JAN: Award Winning Restaurant

PHOTOS Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen PORTRAIT Inemari Rabie WORDS Tracy Greenwood

The first African to be awarded a Michelin star, Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, proprietor and chef at the restaurant JAN in Nice, is a man of many talents. In his sumptuous cookery book JAN – A Breath of French Air, not only was he responsible for preparing the beautiful food but he also did all the writing, styling and photography himself. Where does he find the time?

“Every story has a beginning. Mine started at the tables of my mother and grandmother, where the notion of true South African hospitality seeped into my consciousness to become the foundation on which I would later build JAN. It is here that I learnt the humble art of serving and creating a warm, welcoming space where people would feel special and escape the humdrum of everyday life, to enjoy the singular pleasures of good company and delicious food.”

So begins the first chapter of Jan’s book: a dedication to food and family and living your dream. This is his story.

You are clearly proud of your South African heritage. How did you end up in Nice?

I worked in Paris for a while before cooking for a Swedish family on board their yacht, but I never imagined I would one day open a restaurant in France. Nice, at the time, was perfect. The opportunity was there and I guess I just grabbed it. However, South Africa is still and always will be my home.

What’s the best thing about living in France?

The markets and the produce. France is a country that embraces its culinary heritage and I cannot imagine living somewhere where food does not bring people together.

 How would you describe your food?

The restaurant has been described as modern French with inspirations from South Africa. Beautiful food, but with soul. It’s not necessarily nouvelle cuisine but saying that there is sometimes place for the odd pea on the plate. The most important thing is what my grandmother always told me: “Maak seker die mense gaan nie honger huis toe nie.” (Make sure nobody goes home hungry.)

What is your favourite South African ingredient and how have you interpreted it in your restaurant?

Buchu is beautiful. We do a buchu ice cream with cucumber. The guests love to taste some–thing they have never experienced before. For me, buchu is like a second bottle of water always standing on the pass brewing.

Did you always know you wanted to be a chef?

Since I can remember I have been involved with food. This, along with my passion for photography and my design background, made a great marriage at the end of the day.

You are responsible for most of the writing, styling, photographing and cooking in your book. Why did you do it all yourself?

I also had to do the dishes myself! I like to embrace an idea fast – get it going and not fuss over it. I find doing this myself is easier. The process was more rewarding in some cases than the result.

What’s next? A restaurant back home maybe?

I wish I knew. It would be exciting, wouldn’t it?