Finding Brazil’s Hidden Gems

Julia Franco, owner of Nosso – an interiors store in Sea Point filled with wonderfully fun and playful Brazilian items – shares her travel diary of a recent sourcing trip back home.

WORDS Julia Franco PHOTOS Rawpixel; Supplied

I’m Brazilian, but there are many places in my country I’ve yet to explore – and I’ve long dreamt of road-tripping through Brazil’s north and northeast regions. They’re areas less frequented by tourists, filled with small, vibrant towns and playful, colourful communities. A visit to Brazil’s largest crafts fair in Recife gave me the perfect excuse to pack my bags for a five-week journey with my husband and son. It would be a 1 800km road trip through northeastern Brazil, with a couple of weeks in São Paulo.

We started in Recife, then wound our way past charming coastal towns like Maceió, Milagres and Porto de Galinhas, before finally reaching Salvador. Along the way, we stopped at Fenearte in Recife – a fair showcasing the work of more than 5 000 artisans – and visited the artists’ homes and studios, getting first-hand experience of their creative process.

Ilha Do Ferro, Alagoas State

One place that truly stole my heart was Ilha do Ferro, a peaceful village on the banks of the São Francisco River in the backlands of Alagoas. With about 500 residents, it is one of Brazil’s off-the-beaten-track gems for artisanal crafts and popular art. You’re able to wander around workshops, and see work emerging from clay, stone, wood, thread and paint, experiencing the authenticity of the place and the hospitality of its colourful residents.

Fernando started late in life, making his first piece for sale at the age of 40. By 70, he was presenting his work all over the world, and had created Boca do Vento atelier. He basically taught the entire village to create art; today, it’s home to dozens of artists specialising in wood carving and embroidery, especially a unique technique known as boa noite (“good night”). In front of their homes, in improvised workshops, in squares, on the banks of the river, men and women continue to tell history in tactile renderings.

The artists in Ilha do Ferro don’t cut down any of the wood they use – they work only on trees that had fallen. As soon as a tree falls, they start to divide and share it. Thin branches become chandeliers made by Wandinho; roots go to Zé Crente (the gravedigger); long bark is sent to Vavan to make benches; and smaller pieces are used by brothers Salvinho and Cícero to create their signature pieces of a man carrying a bird on his head.

São Miguel dos Milagres, Alagoas State

We originally planned to stay in São Miguel dos Milagres for just two nights – but once we saw it, that turned into six days. Words can’t really do this charming village justice. There are tons of artisans to visit, and plenty of shops filled with art from surrounding areas, making everything feel connected to the place and the people. The laid-back vibe, great food and colourful houses make this an ideal spot for contemplation – and the restaurants have no set menus, serving whatever is fresh and available that day.

Salvador, Bahia State

The former capital of Brazil, Salvador is a city like no other. Called the “Capital of Happiness”, it is known for its vibrant African-influenced cuisine, music and architecture. Its week-long carnival celebrations are legendary, and the city pulses with artistic energy, music, art and colonial-era architecture that’s gone untouched since the 18th century.

Arriving in Salvador is like stepping into history. It was the site of the first slave market in the New World, where enslaved Africans arrived to work on sugar plantations.

Today, the city reflects a blend of European, African and indigenous cultures, and is gaining recognition as a major hub for artistic and cultural expression in South America. It’s proudly cementing its place as the epicentre of the arts, breathing new life into centuries-old traditions.

I have a deep connection to Salvador. In my teenage years, I spent holidays there with family and friends, and I feel that a big part of Nosso comes from that energy. We decided to stay in the heart of the historical part of the city, to soak it all in. On our first day exploring the cobblestone streets, we stumbled upon a small gallery run by an Italian couple, where – to our surprise and delight – we discovered an original piece by J. Borges, a great woodcut artist in northeastern Brazil and one of the most celebrated masters of the art. His work has been showcased around the world, including at the Louvre and the Smithsonian Institution. We later learnt that he passed away just two days after our visit to the gallery.

São Paulo, São Paulo State

São Paulo – Brazil’s most populous city, and the most populous Portuguese-speaking city in the world – is a global powerhouse in commerce, finance, arts and entertainment. It’s also the city I know best – it’s where I’m from. During our stay, two major events took place: CasaCor, an architectural showcase; and Abup, a trade show for store owners. These fairs hold a special place in my heart because I used to attend them with my grandmother, who owned several decor and furniture shops. I was always excited to accompany her; being at these events again brought back many memories.

Some of the artists and brands that were present during my childhood still participate today. A particularly emotional moment was meeting a supplier whose family brand has passed down through generations; she told me how my grandmother was their only client when they first started out, and how their brand grew from there. That sense of intergenerational connection is something I’ll always cherish. It was an honour to introduce myself as her granddaughter, and I felt proud to continue the relationship she had built all those years ago – especially now, with Nosso! | nosso.co.za

Don’t forget to sign up to our weekly newsletter for the latest architecture and design news.