4th Annual Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards

WORDS Michaela Stehr IMAGES Tash Singh

Twyg announced this year’s Sustainable Fashion Awards winners on 17 November 2022 at the Mount Nelson hotel in Cape Town. Designers and brands were awarded for their implementation of sustainable, ethical, circular and regenerative design.

We chat with award founder and designer Jackie May about the future of SA design and the inspiration behind the awards.

Tell us about how the awards came about.

The concept emerged over a dinner date with two close friends. We were brainstorming how to amplify and extend Twyg’s mission.

What are the criteria for choosing winners?

Each of the 10 categories has slightly different criteria, but essentially we are promoting designers whose work is paving a way for a kinder, fairer, circular and sustainable fashion ecosystem. Our ethos is captured by Twyg’s manifesto which you can find here.

How have you watched design evolve in the past four years?

From the nominations, we have seen a clear shift towards circular design. In our first year, there were very few brands working with waste and upcycling. The focus then was mostly on quality, slow fashion and trans-seasonal design. Although these criteria are still very important, we have seen incredible progress in the use of circular design techniques.

I think that storytelling has also become more interesting and relevant. You can see evidence of this in Cleo Droomer’s work.

Has your criteria for the awards evolved with the change in design trends?

We continue to refine the process. Last year, we consulted with Eco Standard South Africa to improve the entry form. This year we had a new jury. Besides the criteria listed on the website, the judges use a rubric for the judging. This rubric looks at 1) fashion qualities and at 2) sustainability.

What are your predictions for the future of design, specifically in South Africa?

We are so well placed to be a global leader in circular and sustainable design. Firstly, South Africans are incredibly resourceful at making do with what we have – and are doing this beautifully. As it becomes increasingly obvious that we need to protect natural resources, reusing and remaking what is already in use should be the starting point of all design. Secondly, designers and makers will continue to shape our fashion ecosystem, not retailers and industrial manufacturers. The stories told by these makers and designers through their fashion and product are shaping and rebuilding our national identity.

The key challenge to solve is how we move forward as a country in a sustainable way while creating jobs. I’m excited to see how designers unlock this conundrum.  

What are some trends you’ve seen in terms of eco/sustainable design?

Besides the circular principles of remaking and reusing, there is a beautiful return to nature – designing with nature, rather than against it – and to understanding the farm-to-fibre supply chain. South Africa is a major supplier to the world of mohair and wool, providing jobs and contributing to the country’s economy. I’m very excited to see how more and more designers use the natural fibres that are grown here. I’m also interested to see how the hemp sector develops and what transpires for the fashion industry.

After a week-long judging process, 27 finalists were selected and 10 category winners were announced on the Thursday evening.

The winners of the Sustainable Fashion Awards are as follows:

Accessory Award: This award recognises an accessory brand that implements ethical labour practices, limits toxic chemicals and uses sustainable materials to create a quality item and considers end-of-life. The winner of this category is PICHULIK.

Innovative Design and Materials Award presented by Polo South Africa:  This award is presented to a designer who has used innovative techniques to reduce fashion’s negative impact and shows commitment to using sustainable fabrics. The winner of this category is Droomer.

Nicholas Coutts Award: This award honours the talented young designer Nicolas Coutts. Nicholas, who beautifully used and explored traditional crafts and techniques in his design, tragically lost his life at the beginning of 2019. This award is presented to a designer who uses artisanal craft techniques such as weaving, embroidery or botanical dyeing to make fashion that foregrounds, celebrates and values the skills of the people who make the garments. The winner of this category is Laaniraani, who wins R10 000 from Nicholas’ family.

Student Award from Levi’s South Africa: This award is presented to a student who has produced a garment or collection that addresses the challenges of sustainability in the most exciting and beautiful way. The winner of this category is Aidan Peters.

Textiles or Mills Award: This award is presented to a South African textile maker or mill that uses natural, regenerative fibres, non-toxic dyes and finishes, and closed-loop systems. The winner of this category is ZURI and IMANI. 

Trans-seasonal Award: This award is presented to a collection, garment or brand that promotes trans-seasonal, multi-functionality and versatile style. The winner of this category is The BAM collective.

Retail Award: This award is presented to a retailer or retailing initiative that enhances sustainability, including pre-loved/gently worn, swap shops, garment rental, and similar activities. The winner of this category is Merchants on Long.

CMT or Manufacturer Award: This award is presented to a ‘cut, make and trim’ factory or manufacturer of clothes or accessories that is socially and environmentally conscious and/or whose business practices are socially and environmentally responsible. The winner of this category is Sparrow Society.

Influencer Award: This award is presented to a personality or think-fluencer who has actively promoted slow, sustainable fashion over the last 12 months and who has sparked relevant conversations. This person has also explained sustainable issues factually and has cautioned against harming nature on social media and other platforms. The winner of this category is Khensani Mohlatlole.

Changemaker Award presented by Country Road: This award, which is not open for entries is presented to a designer whose career has embraced sustainable and circular design practices. The winners with the highest scores in the design categories (Student, Accessory, Trans-seasonal, Coutts, Innovative Design and Materials Award) were judged against the criteria set for the Changemaker Award. The winner of the Changemaker Award who has been awarded R100 000.00 by Country Road is Droomer.

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