With southern right whales arriving in Walker Bay as early as July, Martin Jacobs packs a weekender and checks into three of Hermanus’s finest hotels to find the rooms that put you closest to the action.
WORDS Martin Jacobs PHOTOS Grant Durr/Unsplash, Supplied
Birkenhead House
Suburb Voëlklip
Why watch here The quiet suburb has a rocky coastline elevated above sheltered nursery waters. It’s in these waters, close to shore, that southern right mothers and calves often spend extended periods.
The hotel That Birkenhead House enjoys the highest percentage of repeat guests across The Royal Portfolio collection speaks volumes. Positioned on a rocky promontory above Voëlklip Beach, the chic beach house occupies one of the most enviable positions on this stretch of coastline, pairing a breathtaking setting with intuitive hospitality that has guests returning time and again. With just eleven rooms, Birkenhead House is boutique, cultivating the atmosphere of an elegant seaside home – albeit one where every detail has been considered and every comfort anticipated. Hotelier Liz Biden’s eclectic approach to decorating makes for enchanting interiors in which colour, culture and comfort combine. Local art, exotic collectibles and eye-catching hues enchant, evoking a luxurious home-like atmosphere which, given that this was once the private holiday home of The Royal Portfolio’s founding family, is perhaps to be expected. The interconnected buildings today cascade gracefully downhill around a series of courtyards, fish ponds and swimming pools, gently drawing guests towards the communal lounges, dining room and infinity terrace below. Here, uninterrupted views sweep across Walker Bay to a soundtrack of breaking waves. Binoculars are thoughtfully placed throughout these shared spaces, ready for the moment a southern right whale surfaces just beyond the breakers.
Best Rooms for whale watching Rooms 1 and 2, located in the front house directly above the communal living spaces, enjoy both front- and side-facing ocean views. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors open onto compact private balconies, while separate dressing rooms and generously proportioned bathrooms make these Birkenhead House’s most luxurious suites. Room 3 enjoys the same elevated position, with both the bedroom and bathroom framing views across Voëlklip Beach and the coastline beyond. From the comfort of king-size beds with monogramed linen and perfect pillows, each of these three rooms offers exceptional opportunities for whale watching.
Other Options Positioned below Room 3, Room 4 also overlooks Voëlklip Beach, although with less elevation. Upstairs in the rear house, Room 6 similarly enjoys expansive sea views and makes an excellent alternative. What Room 5 lacks in views it makes up for with a private garden complete with Moroccan-inspired plunge pool.
Where to Eat With all meals, an extensive array of beverages – alcoholic and otherwise – as well as a generously stocked minibar filled with snacks and homemade chocolates included in the rate, there’s little reason to venture elsewhere. Breakfast and lunch are served from an à la carte menu featuring dishes such as eggs royal, prawn frittata, a ‘surfers croissant’, smoked sailfish carpaccio and squid ink seafood pasta, while dinner changes nightly to showcase the best seasonal produce. Dining is an integral part of the Birkenhead House experience, with generous, beautifully plated dishes served across several indoor and outdoor spaces, but predominantly in a dining area overlooking the ocean. Guests won’t go hungry, and the kitchen is adept at accommodating dietary requirements, doing so with attention to detail. | theroyalportfolio.com
The Marine
Suburb Central Hermanus
Why watch here The hotel’s elevated cliff-top position provides 180 degree views across Walker Bay, with the added bonus of easy access to Hermanus’s restaurants and cliff path.
The hotel Few hotels occupy such an iconic position along Hermanus’s celebrated Cliff Path as The Marine. Today a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World©, its story stretches back to 1902, when Walter McFarlane opened what was then a modest seaside hotel with just 21 rooms, two flush toilets per floor, and neither electricity nor running water in its guestrooms. A century later, following its acquisition and meticulous restoration by the late hotelier Liz McGrath in 1998, The Marine has become synonymous with understated five-star luxury. Its forty individually configured rooms ensure that no two stays are quite the same, while even the entry-level accommodation feels notably generous in scale. Recently refreshed by Dawn Dickerson and Carmel Naudé of HotCocoa Interiors, the interiors introduce a lighter, more contemporary palette of aquatic blues and sea greens, layered with classic detailing that acknowledges both the hotel’s heritage and its remarkable coastal setting.
Best Rooms for whale watching Suite 219, positioned midway along the upper floor, offers arguably the hotel’s finest vantage point. Double-volume in height, the suite features three soaring bay windows that frame uninterrupted 180-degree views across Walker Bay, with Gearings Point perfectly positioned within the panorama. A staircase leads to the mezzanine bedroom, where the bed enjoys its own memorable outlook through a distinctive circular oculus window found nowhere else in the hotel.
Other Options For guests seeking the same level of luxury without the staircase, neighbouring Suite 215 is an excellent choice, while Suite 102 offers equally generous accommodation on the ground floor. Those travelling with a more modest budget should consider Room 207, whose spacious layout and private balcony with side ocean views make it exceptional value.
Where to Eat Following HotCocoa Interiors upgrade, the restaurant’s first comprehensive redesign in almost twenty years, The Pavilion Restaurant has emerged refreshed while retaining its unmistakable identity. The signature black-and-white chequered flooring remains, now complemented by an elegant palette inspired by the surrounding fynbos – lush green velvets, metallic accents, marble, grasscloth wallcoverings and hand-painted murals create a space that feels simultaneously timeless and contemporary. The menu similarly balances familiar favourites with thoughtful additions. Longstanding signatures such as the fishcakes now arrive with a bright citrus, avocado and shaved fennel salad, while newer dishes include delicately seared Asian-inspired tuna. Desserts, particularly the passionfruit soufflé and fruit-laden pavlova, provide a suitably memorable finale. | themarinehotel.co.za
One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel
Suburb Westcliff
Why watch here With the New Harbour nearby for boat-based whale-watching excursions, this quiet suburb offers cliff path views over deeper coastal waters.
The hotel Occupying a privileged position between s historic Old Harbour and the working New Harbour, One Marine Drive offers a more contemporary interpretation of the boutique coastal hotel. Crisp architectural lines, polished finishes and understated luxury are softened by playful Californian surf-house influences, expressed through tropical wallpapers, colourful contemporary artworks and wall-mounted surfboards that bring character to both pool areas. The hotel’s two modern buildings are linked by indoor and outdoor walkways and together accommodate just sixteen rooms. Sea-facing rooms enjoy uninterrupted views across Walker Bay, placing guests in prime position throughout whale season.
Best Rooms for whale watching Room 9 is the standout choice. Positioned on the middle of the hotel’s three levels, floor-to-ceiling glass doors open onto a private balcony overlooking Walker Bay, while an additional picture window broadens the panorama, ensuring the ever-changing spectacle of the bay remains constantly in view.
Other Options Rooms 7 and 8, located alongside Room 9, also enjoy sea-facing views. One floor higher, Rooms 16 and 17 benefit from an even more elevated perspective across Walker Bay and provide excellent vantage points during whale season. For those seeking additional space, the Columbine Suite – named after the 1936 lighthouse at Cape Columbine near Paternoster – offers an expansive terrace complete with loungers and an outdoor dining table.
Where to Eat Immediately across the road, Ficks occupies a spectacular setting carved into the rocks beside a tidal pool, making it one of Hermanus’s most atmospheric lunch spots. Its menu of tapas-style small plates and pinchos pairs perfectly with an afternoon spent watching whales offshore. Within easy walking distance, Pure Bistro offers another superb terrace for whale watching. Alongside an accomplished seasonal menu, its frikkadel-style burger has earned a reputation as one of the finest in the Western Cape. | thelivingjourneycollection.co.za
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