A far-off place

PHOTOS: Dook | PRODUCTION: Annemarie Meintjes, Klara van Wyngaarden | WORDS: Andrea Vinassa

A trip to Plettenberg Bay is no longer complete without a stopover at Emily Moon River Lodge, Mark and Christine Valentine’s eclectically decorated new luxury destination.

‘In 1872 Harry Mallard, the son of an English lord and the black sheep of the Mallard family, had had enough of England. As the youngest son, he knew he had no future in a society that valued hierarchy above all else. He packed his bags, set sail for Africa and settled in Algoa Bay in 1873.

A good-looking rake, he set about becoming an adventurer and explorer, crisscrossing the continent with his loyal safari guides, Fari and Tiki.

Harry’s sojourns at the homes of his lesbian aunts Nora and Hilda are legendary. He also shared a passion for the African bush with his best friends Riley and Larry. Together, they traced Livingstone’s steps along the mighty Zambezi and stood watching over “the smoke that thunders”. They sat around campfires talking about home, but didn’t miss it much. Then there were the exotic Parisians Brigitte and Bernadette, who added a touch of continental flair to the mix.

One day, Harry met Emily. This encounter inspired him to set up permanent camp. For this he chose the most exquisite site, set above the Bitou River in Plettenberg Bay, which has a history of its own: in 1487 Bartholomew Dias first charted the bay; 90 years later Manuel da Perestrello called it Bahia Formosa or the Bay Beautiful; and in 1779 the Governor of the Cape, Baron Joachim van Plettenberg, renamed the town Plettenberg Bay.

To Harry, it was the most beautiful bay he had ever seen and a fitting home for his one true love. Harry built Emily a lodge and furnished it with beautiful objects collected during his travels. He would sit on the deck overlooking the Bitou and pen hundreds of love letters…’

As if you hadn’t already guessed it, the story of Emily Moon is an alluring myth dreamt up by Mark Valentine and his wife, Christine, who transformed a simple bed and breakfast into this intriguing lodge using a lot of imagination and very little hard cash. Now, when visitors are shown to their rooms, they receive one of these ‘love letters’ on their pillows.

A place to fall in the love with

During its short life (the lodge has been open since November 2005 and is currently run by Mark’s parents, Simon and Di Valentine) visitors have come to Emily Moon from all over the world, to be greeted by the sight of a row of African aloes at the front gate and the unmistakable scent of fynbos.

Stepping through the carved Indian doorframe, the weary traveller is transported to an Alice in Wonderland-style world, where truth and fiction mingle as easily as gin and tonic.

‘Emily Moon tells a glorious African tale about fortunes made and lost, about friendship and discovery,’ says Mark. The truth of the matter is that the lodge is named after his middle daughter, Emily. But truth is of little consequence on this side of the looking glass.

Mark and Christine have trekked the length and breadth of Africa and deep into India to collect the artefacts and one-off pieces that give the lodge its eclectic character. With a total of eight suites, it can accommodate up to 16 people at a time, making for an intimate experience. Each suite is decorated to mirror the personality of a fictional character, giving each space unique appeal. With its luxurious surrounds and old-school service, it’s no surprise that the lodge is almost always fully booked.

Luckily, it’s not only sleep-over guests who can enjoy the pleasures of Emily Moon – the restaurant is open to the public (word has it that chef Larry Steenkamp would give Jamie Oliver a run for his money), and cocktails overlookingthe Bitou River are a wonderful way to end the day.

Mark’s history is almost as intriguing as his fictional creation, Harry Mallard. He spent 10 years tramping around bush camps as a game ranger, meeting Christine while on safari. One night a hyena attacked them in their tent and Christine was badly bitten. They decided to call it a day and go travelling. Their love of the bush and experiences on their travels eventually resulted in Amatuli Fine Art – the Johannesburg gallery owned by the couple – which supplies top interior designers with furniture and artefacts from across Africa and India.

It’s all in the finishes

The success of the lodge’s decor lies in its relaxed, informal and eclectic style that includes personal touches like family photographs, mismatched second-hand tables, chairs covered in leather and velvet, and bar stools covered in Nguni cowhide – as well as striking feature pieces such as the massive door that the couple discovered in Rajistan and that now stands at the entrance to the restaurant.

Nods to both history and other cultures are evident at every turn: there are quirky chainsaw crocodiles and carved fish from Swaziland; house posts sourced in Nigeria; a beaded Yoruba chair; giraffe skulls and an assortment of horns and African masks; tall silver candelabra; traditional baskets; ornately decorated framed mirrors; and shapely sculptures.

Fittingly, each find has a story behind it, such as the wooden mermaid statues from Lozi in Zambia. ‘What I find fascinating about them is that, despite the region being landlocked, the people who live there have an abundance of mermaid totems,’ says Mark. This imaginative couple has proved that a little cunning and a lot of passion are the essential ingredients when you’re putting together one of the most original guest houses on the planet.  

• Emily Moon River Lodge: 044 533 2982, info@emilymoon.co.za, www.emilymoon.co.za