WORDS Annette Klinger PHOTOS Dook

As far as site-responsive architecture goes, the designers of &Beyond Suyian Lodge could hardly have asked for a more captivating muse than the Laikipia Plateau in Kenya. The 17 000-hectare Suyian Conservancy – where architects Nick Plewman of Nicholas Plewman Architects and Alex Michaelis of UK-based Michaelis Boyd, together with interior designers Fox Browne Creative, were tasked with creating the luxury hotel – comprises five diverse habitats, including grass plains, riverine areas, acacia woodland, granitic inselbergs and a phonolite escarpment. The lodge perches on a ridge overlooking a rock sanctuary, its design DNA undeniably evocative of its diverse surroundings, yet singular in execution.

The main lodge is situated at the heart of the development, its composite, stratified form echoing the granite outcrops of the rock sanctuary. Fourteen domed clay-and-stone-clad suites fan out across the landscape. Nick and Alex describe the structures as being in perpetual dialogue with their geographical context. “The main challenge was embedding quite a big development in a relatively small, pristine site in such a way that it would recede into its environment,” says Nick.

Beyond the architectural form, Nick and Alex tethered the structures to the landscape with a deliberate deployment of materials. Volcanic rocks from the surrounding escarpment form the cladding of the cylindrical walls; the wild grasslands of the plateau are recreated in miniature on turf rooftops; and even the reddish-brown volcanic soil of the site is used as external rendering on the domes, arches and walls.

“The volcanic stones have oxidised and aged with time, so cladding the walls with them helps to embed the structures in the plateau,” says Nick. “Similarly, the roughened soil-and-lime-plastered surfaces of the domes and walls will eventually grow mould, lichens and mosses that will age naturally and accrue the kind of patina of time that is attached to the rocks around here.”

Echoing and inverting the form and materiality of the architecture, the interiors speak to the creative synergy between the teams. For every earth-rendered dome outside, there’s a vaulted lime-plaster ceiling counterpart; for every convex stone-clad external wall, there’s a concave of polished concrete inside. “The granite outcrops inspired the architecture, which led the way for the interior design to follow,” says Chris Browne of Fox Browne Creative – a joint partnership with his wife Debra Fox. “We had to tell a story of the intersection of nature and culture.”

Deftly sidestepping any luxury lodge interior clichés, Chris and Debra opted for a cool, muted palette and tactile yet refined materials, keeping adornment minimal. “Our sense is that most guests have had enough of ‘stuff’ and amenity creep,” says Chris. When decoration is deployed, it’s done intentionally – like the nod to the endemic Euphorbia tanaensis in a sculptural chair by Georgina Anderson of High Thorn in the boot room, and a Sarah Kelly painting in the pool room.

Paying tribute to the culture and craftsmanship of the local Samburu – including the hand-built Laikipia homesteads of the surrounds – Chris and Debra commissioned almost 80% of the furniture and fittings in Kenya. Rugs by Jireh Hand Woven Craft, earthenware by Ceramiqa Pottery, outdoor furniture by Kaa Hapa and glassware by Kitengela Glass punctuate the lodge with a design language that feels unique and uncontrived. “As design professionals, we listened to each other, so a real ‘truth’ started to emerge,” says Chris. “‘Less is more’ sounds like a cliché, but in this instance it worked.”

Nick agrees: “There is a calm minimalism to the place that allows the guest to focus on the environment – but it’s also quite a celebratory space.” And right about now, a little serene celebration sounds like something most weary travellers can get behind. | andbeyond.com

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WORDS Gina Dionisio PHOTOS Supplied

Amid the lush dune forests of Mabibi Bay, on the iSimangaliso Wetland Park coast of KwaZulu-Natal, lies Thonga Beach Lodge – a serene, luxurious retreat shaped by the local community and its surroundings.

The design team set out to create a beach escape that would have minimal impact on the UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Everything had to be hidden beneath the ancient canopy of the Mdoni trees. Any light disturbs turtle nesting patterns; this, along with several other factors, resulted in a visually simple architectural design that pays homage to a place with no development on this beach – 100 miles north and 60 miles south – a civilised distance from civilisation,” says Paige Gehren, owner of Thonga Beach Lodge. The result is a site-sensitive design that feels organic, where sustainable materials and local craftsmanship take centre stage.

Across the property, a collection of 12 thatched-roofed pods opens onto both forest and sea, each celebrating a unique aspect of its coastal setting. The interiors evoke a sense of calm and ease, with ocean-inspired hues (think soft neutrals, silvers, blues and a pop of coral) dominating the decor palette. “We looked at the froth of a wave, the silver glints upon it, and the bleached shells and weathered pieces of wood scattered along the beach. Together, these elements shaped our idea of what this sense of remoteness feels like to our guests,” says Paige. As guests step inside, the intention is for them to reconnect with nature and themselves – to slip off their shoes, exhale deeply, and sink into one of the lodge’s inviting spaces.

Local collaboration played a key role in shaping the lodge’s interiors and communal areas. Handwoven carpets from Maputaland, bespoke furniture by Conrad Inspired Furniture and Kipikee Studios, woven lampshades crafted by the Mabibi community, and beaded placemats by Monkeybiz all reflect this partnership. “These pieces remind guests that every detail has a story, connecting form and function to a sense of place,” says Paige.

Sustainability is central to the guest experience: from the absence of single-use plastics to greywater recycling and community-led environmental initiatives. “It’s a journey of rediscovering one’s place in the environment, as disconnection in our daily lives continues. By choosing to stay here, guests contribute directly to the Park’s management and, in turn, the conservation of the entire area. They become part of the story – caring for the environment and being fully present,” explains Paige.

Beyond that, a sense of eco-storytelling and playfulness is woven into every design detail at Thonga Beach Lodge. The bar, conceived to mirror the movement of a wave as it gathers and recedes, features a sculptural glass chandelier crafted from recycled beach glass by South African designer Stephen Pikus. The Beach Hub, home to the lodge’s marine activities, with its sculptural fishtail bench commissioned from Conrad Inspired Furniture, captures the exuberance of the sea.

“We wanted the lodge to unfold as you arrived – to move from the quiet, calm reception area and discover more around each corner, with some spaces slightly hidden away,” adds Paige. “There’s a sense of adventure in arriving somewhere new, and we wanted to encourage that.” | thongabeachlodge.co.za

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In Kwazulu-Natal, a new off-the-grid lodge with 12 luxurious villas bonds with the local community, the flora – and the resident herd of elephants.

Before the mFulaWozi Private Game Reserve‘s Biyela Lodge, there was nothing – except hectares of pristine bush adjoining the lower Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, and plenty of wild animals. “The elephants were our natural surveyors, providing well-worn paths to assist in deciding where the best routes for game-viewing would be,” says Barry Theunissen, who designed and built the lodge with his wife Sonya. “While we were building, elephants often came to inspect the progress. There are herds of more than a hundred that congregate in the river in front of the lodge site.”

Having spent large chunks of time in wildlife reserves, the Theunissens named the lodge after local chief Phiwayinkosi Biyela, a descendent of King Shaka. The project was conceived collaboratively with the amakhosi who own the wilderness areas surrounding the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi reserve.

With the help of architect Peter Whitehouse, Barry engineered a pillared support structure for what is now a series of 12 luxurious stand-alone off-the-grid villas – 10 with private rim-flow swimming pools, and two with expansive daybeds – backing into the bank of the White Umfolozi River. “We had to navigate a cliff and manoeuvre around some fairly significant granite rocks to offer guests what is now modern, five-star, contemporary accommodation immersed in the bushveld,” says Barry.“Villas on a higher section of cliff offer spectacular views, while those lower down offer interaction with animal traffic – including elephants stopping to drink from an otherwise private swimming pool.”

Barry’s vision was to embark on a project with purpose: not just to preserve the land and the animals, but to uplift the communities that live nearby. Local people were employed in all aspects of building, including laying bricks and gathering the stones that punctuate the raw concrete roofs, polished floors and plastered walls – fittingly protected with natural cement paint in an “elephant hide” hue. To produce the concrete slab ceilings that bear the imprint of their wooden moulds, the Theunissens set up an on-site cement plant, pouring concrete on weekends and transporting loads from batching plants in Empangeni and Eshowe.

Sonya’s ideas for the interior fixtures and colours were brilliantly interpreted, expanded and presented by Ballito-based interior designer Michele Throssell. “On our first drive to Biyela, we were struck by the richness and abundance of the landscape surrounding us,” says Michele. “We wanted to celebrate its uniqueness and instil a greater appreciation for nature – for both its physical and spiritual power. We connected with the healing ability of the Earth and its flora (sometimes overlooked in favour of the Big Five), and explored the quiet authority of the sangoma as a medicine man in the Zulu culture. This led us to a concept of ‘contemporary African apothecary’.”

Each uniquely designed room sets off the greens of the foliage – olive, pea, silver-grey, burnt umber – against charcoal walls. The laboratory-shaped glass vessels, steel cabinets, medicine bottles and furniture reference a modern-day chemist or scientist’s study, complemented by botanical artworks and biological studies, handwoven African mats, basketweave natural-grass lampshades and locally sourced fabrics that were carefully selected so as not to impose on or distract from Biyela’s greatest asset: the space beyond.

“Some guests call it the selfie lodge – and it does make for great photos,” says Sonya. “But, really, we’re trying to go back to basics, to where we started, from scratch, simply observing, and to an extent interacting as closely as possible with what’s coming into and out of the wilderness.”

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Thornybush Lodge at Kruger has added a new exclusive-use offering to its 5-star getaway experience. Introducing Kamara House.

The new private house overlooks a small riverbed, the perfect location for watching animals. The newest addition to the luxury safari experience came into fruition when the original lodge received a full refurbishment and facelift which you can read about, here.

Designed with larger groups of friends and family in mind, Kamara House gives privacy and a discreet setting with the option of using all of the Lodge’s public areas and spaces. Including the spa and wellness centre, the feature pool area and the game lodge shop.

“We are delighted to expand the Thornybush offering by introducing our guests to a holistic 5-star luxury safari experience, complete with a health and wellness program, immersive safari experiences, and new facilities while staying true to the safari legacy that defines Thornybush Game Lodge,” says Melanie Parker, Head of Operations.

The house spans 251m squared under the roof with an additional 120m deck and private swimming pool for guests, with the space comfortably sleeping six guests.

Designed in a style that fuses a contemporary edge with organic and nature-inspired qualities, the space juxta[poses textures and tones that blend with the surrounding bush and landscape. Interior Designer Artichoke along with architects Lankers & Fry worked together to imagine the new space “Our aim was to create a sense of tranquillity by combining classic and modern design elements. We have made sure not to overdesign the spaces, which allows for a sense of comfort and relaxation throughout, utilising timeless elements Thornybush is so well known for, allowing the beautiful open spaces to speak for themselves ” says Caline Williams-Wynn.

Artichoke has curated a team of local artisans to create the exquisite cabinetry in both the bedrooms and bathrooms. “The superior craftsmanship, combined with the use of organic and textured materials such as raffia sliding doors on cupboards in the rooms and rattan on bathroom vanities, further enhances the luxurious atmosphere of the spaces. The showstoppers in the rooms are the trunks at the end of the beds which are multipurpose and can be used as luggage racks as well as extra storage” says Samantha Mühlbauer of Artichoke. As part of Thornybush’s ongoing commitment to supporting local communities, the construction teams were employed locally.

Known for quality service in a luxurious setting, Thornybush offers a state-of-the-art safari experience including twice daily game drives, guided bush tours and viewing from the decks of the lodge.

“We are thrilled with the addition of Kamara House to our esteemed Thornybush offering. Building upon the cherished legacy of the beloved Game Lodge, this exclusive-use retreat provides discerning guests seeking high-end seclusion and privacy with the opportunity to uncover their dream safari,” concludes Andy Payne, CEO of Thornybush.

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A beloved Kruger resort received a contemporary makeover that exudes classic safari charm with a modern edge.

Thornybush Game Lodge underwent a top-to-toe refurbishment that took a seven-week closure and a decor overhaul by Caline Williams-Wynn and the designers at Artichoke. Bringing the outside in, the team placed a large emphasis on textures and tones, from wood, steel and leather to rattan, all highlighted by neutral pops of colour like charcoal, saffron and green – the visual palate of a safari holiday.

“The new look for Thornybush Game Lodge is all about what the guests can see and touch. It’s all in the detail but at the same time not minimising all the comforts required for a 5-star Lodge. The colour palette has longevity and is classic” says Williams-Wynn. 

Another task for the team was to minimalise clutter and pare back the style of the lodge, creating a spacious feel, that places more emphasis on the experience and being in nature. Offering 16 luxury suites, the lodge aims to bring a 5-star quality to being in the bush. “Thornybush Game Lodge has been reimagined but yet still preserving its legendary charm and history. As a result, it will continue to make it a favourite South African Lodge because of the hospitality, staff and amazing game-viewing experiences” says Melanie Parker – Head of Operations at Thornybush. 

An introduction to a library to the lodge adds sophisticated flair to the communal spaces, where guests can relax and have private events in an area with a beautifully curated wall of artefacts and art pieces that tell the story and history of Game Lodge and the Kruger National Park. 

“We aim to nurture the guests’ curiosity about the flora and fauna of the area. The guests are encouraged to rifle through the library cupboards exploring specimens that have been collected in the Thornybush area and read the factual and fascinating information that the Thornybush head guides have written about each specimen on the tags provided” says curator Gina Waldman of Waldman Studios. “This experience is very different from viewing live animals in the wild. It’s rather exciting to pick up a giraffe bone and feel the weight of this or look at how thick a giraffe tail hair actually is up close enhancing the game viewing experience. The idea is that the collection will be a growing library and will evolve yearly as the guides find more exciting items and can be enjoyed by all for generations to come,” adds Waldman. 

The pool area has also been increased in size offering guests more opportunities to lounge and soak in the Kruger sunshine. The bar area has had a make-over, with the bar counter sporting a beautiful tiled front, the perfect spot to enjoy a post-game drive G & T or a nightcap. Guests will also notice new decks and flooring throughout. 

“Thornybush strives to continually improve the way we operate and to be aware of our impact on our surrounding areas and communities. A major focus of the refurbishment was to make Game Lodge more sustainable. This has been made possible by the implementation of our own solar plant at Game Lodge which distributes power to this lodge and Saseka Tented Camp and there are plans in place to get more of our lodges, including Simbambili in the Sabi Sands, onto solar to further reduce our carbon footprint across the Group” adds Parker. 

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&Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge gets a chic modern redesign, celebrating colour, culture, art, design, natural materials and Serengeti charm.

It’s a tranquil setting that contradicts an annual drama. A short walk down a gravel path through a gap in the thick bush opens up to an extensive oxbow lake, seasonally fed by the Grumeti River. Here you’ll find &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge’s expansive guest pavilion, and a deck that overlooks the large pods of resident hippos in the water below. It’s a beautiful, peaceful scene… for now: these waters also play host to one of the animal kingdom’s legendary spectacles – the great migration – as massive herds of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle begin their trek across the vast Serengeti plains towards Kenya’s Maasai Mara. The Grumeti is the first major river crossing. Tucked away in its riverine forest, the lodge’s pavilion and 10 luxury guest suites follow the natural curves and flow of the river. The circular form of the Maasai necklace and the vibrant colours of the region inspired Fox Browne Creative’s Chris Browne to meet the brief of creating an ambience of rustic, elegant, authentic luxury for the camp. Circular form is the dominant design theme, with banana fibre-clad discs in the pavilion’s dining and lounge area ceilings, the shape repeating itself to unite with the boma and spherical rim-flow pool at the other end of the communal space. Still in its original position, the traditional boma remains the hero of night-time dining under the stars.

The circular theme continues in the private guest areas,inspired by traditional Maasai Manyatta homesteads in which homes surround a cattle enclosure. With a directive to re-interpret the safari tent, lead architect Jack Alexander, in partnership with Fox Browne Creative, designed a contemporary lightweight steel frame for the rooms. Made off-site for easy transport and assembled on location, the structures were then clad in classic canvas and local hardwood to provide richness and texture.

READ MORE: Zambian Lodge by Fox Brown Creative

Thanks to the absence of concrete as a material, the buildings have a lightness, appearing to float over the landscape and blend into their surroundings. With a sustainable life cycle in mind, upcycling and repurposing were integral to the design process and construction approach, and included reusing the previous structures’ foundations and floor platforms, as well as their building materials, which were also recycled.

Decorated in soft African pastels, each suite is a sanctuary, fully immersed in the wilderness. Rather than employing glazing, canvas structures soften the barrier between the tent’s occupants and nature, connecting them directly with the Serengeti. It’s an impression accentuated by a bathtub elegantly nestled in a protective woven cradle, as well as the breeze that flows through the indoor/outdoor shower.

READ MORE: Gujarati Lodge

Fox Browne Creative’s vision was also to feature African artisans. As a result, delicate handblown recycled-glass basins by local social enterprise Shanga are complemented by wooden vanities courtesy of South Africa’s Umdabu, and oversized round mirrors by Arkivio that reflect views of the river, forest, and the abundant birds and animals. The profusion of wildlife is also on show from the spacious deck, with its plunge pool a luxurious respite on hot afternoons. Cocktail in hand and cooled by an afternoon swim, there’s no better place to witness the Great Migration gain momentum as thousands upon thousands of animals cross the Grumeti on their incredible journey.

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Situated on a riverfront concession in Zambia’s lower Zambezi National Park, this new luxury lodge combines elegance with just a touch of sparkle.

With every new lodge, we have a process,” says Debra Fox, sitting in the lounge of Lolebezi, the latest luxury safari destination to bear the signature of design studio Fox Browne Creative. As coffee is served in bespoke Vorster & Braye crockery on a tray of shimmering copper, the morning sun tinges the Zambezi River with gold.

“Our process is called circles in a forest,” she says. “It’s where we walk and feel the landscape. Because wherever we go, it’s always about a sense of place. It’s all about site.” And the location of Lolebezi is nothing short of remarkable, occupying a riverfront private concession site within Zambia’s remote Lower Zambezi National Park.

“It’s one of those game-changing sites in southern Africa,” notes Jack Alexander, the architect on the project. “The river is obviously the biggest drawcard, but with this particular site, there are also spectacular views backwards into the forest.” That forest is a lush stand of winter thorn acacia, which would become a muse for the lodge’s design ethos, the curved seedpods informing much of Lolebezi’s visual language.

READ MORE: Gujarati Lodge

That’s most obvious in the beautiful hand-printed bed throws, and the botanical panels framing the central lounge area, both by Amanda du Plessis of Evolution Product. But more broadly, the circular seed shape is a motif evident throughout the eight-bedroom lodge, where swirling forms soften the thoroughly contemporary design.

READ MORE: Luxury Sossusvlei Lodge

Created by Tribal Textiles, striking works of woven grass – each nearly four metres across – sweep across the ceiling of the lounge and dining area. But perhaps the highlight is at the very heart of the lodge: a circular two-level platform dubbed the “Circle of Light” that ascends into the boughs of a sturdy winter thorn. “The circle around the tree became a hinge; a pivot point where we see the guest move between two halves of the lodge,” explains Jack. “We also wanted to get guests up into the canopy of the winter thorn. From there, you get this phenomenal aspect down the Zambezi and into the forest.”

“Overall, we tried to provide a design that enhances the guest experience of the Lower Zambezi,” adds Debra. “Many of the most beautiful aspects of the lodge are those that enhance the sense of being in that space.”

READ MORE: Khwai Leadwood in Botswana

Aside from natural inspiration, the design of Lolebezi also taps into the history, traditions and culture of Zambia. Angular legs of Kaonde tribal stools are subtly echoed in the dining tables and faceted bar counter of rain forest marble. A curtain of curled reeds, hand-stitched locally, frames a curving couch of textured rattan designed to maximise the river views. The shimmer of copper – one of Zambia’s key exports – is another thread that runs through Lolebezi, from the breakfast trays to the striking circular mosquito nets in each suite.

“With all the organic textures, you want a bit of sparkle,” says Debra with a smile. “Not too much – just a little, to play off the textural elements. If we didn’t have the rustic railway sleepers and the organic reeds, it might look out of place. But because it’s toned down – and a natural material – it works.

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A fortuitous meeting of like-minded creatives led to the development of a tranquil, village-like retreat in India’s Gir National Park.

From a frenetic, bustling street in rural India, a turn down a winding wooded dirt road leads to a plain gate with a sandstone sign simply stating, “Aramness Gir National Park”. Past the gate, on either side of the driveway that leads to a hamlet, is an edible garden, fruit orchards and re-wilded meadows, where water buffalo and spotted deer (chital) wander through to a communal watering hole.

The concept came about five years ago, when Gujarati businessman and conservation- conscious wildlife photographer Jimmy Patel connected with Debra Fox and Chris Browne of Fox Browne Creative, and architect Nick Plewman. Standing on what was then an open piece of land, surrounded by natural teak forest full of birds and game, the newly assembled team came up with the name: aram, meaning peace/rest; and ness, the name for local villages.

The imposing antique wooden doors of a haveli (a traditional Indian manor house) reveal themselves amid the vegetation, the elephant-headed god Ganesha standing guard in a niche above them. Stepping through these ancient doors reveals the best of Indian hospitality – a joyful yet tranquil atmosphere, with sounds of water running along furrows and pooling intermittently into formal features brimming with waterlilies. Festive overhead canopies punctuate quiet seating areas, where your journey is rewarded with aromatic Indian chai.

Nick was inspired by the meandering alleys of the nearby hamlet of Haripur, its natural, organic arrangement layered over hundreds of years. And so the 18 kothi-style (bungalow) rooms at Aramness are designed to bring guests closer to nature and to the authentic rhythm of Indian life. Each has a shaded courtyard and a veranda overlooking the teak forest, as well as a private pool inspired by the region’s characteristic Indian stepwells.

Fox Browne Creative filled the interiors with a mix of contemporary, classic and antique furniture, focusing on textures, materials and craft techniques native to the region. The soft bone palette is sharpened with brass detailing and Gujarati textiles, while ornamental jali (lattice) screens cast dappled light into the rooms. The effect is simple, elegant and understated. Impressive square sandstone towers above the haveli’s courtyard combine modern architectural design with Gujarati motifs – their jali pattern, for example, comes from the organic “lace” pattern left on teak leaves after drying. The colonnaded main building is guarded by two bronze lions, which flank the heavy, ornate wooden doors; a gleaming white terrazzo floor leads into a cool, triple-volume interior courtyard.

From this central area, which is bookended by the dining room and the guest lounge, you’re drawn up an elegant, sweeping staircase to the open-plan map room and library, stocked with reading material about the area, its animals and its topography. The key feature in the library is an original wooden jali lattice screen, creating a perfect frame for the garden view.

To the right of the entrance is the swimming pool, spa, craft gallery, and yoga and meditation pavilion. In contrast to the stone facades, the pool room’s modern perforated jali is constructed from metal-lattice screens, which let through light and minimise glare without affecting the view. This provides a welcome reprieve from the heat and humidity, allowing for cross breezes and ventilation.

Aramness was never meant to be a gleaming diamond, standing conspicuous in the lush countryside, but rather a naturally polished gem of the sort found in a rural stream. It’s a beautifully designed space that harmoniously and respectfully blends into its surroundings – a luxurious and peaceful retreat in a very special part of the world.

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Here’s our pick of the best dark sky locations where you can connect with the cosmos, plus a couple of tips for ensuring you get to see the heavens at their finest.

SUTHERLAND AND THE KAROO

There’s a good reason why international scientists have chosen to build some of the world’s biggest telescopes in the Karoo: we have extraordinarily dark skies for optical telescopes like the Southern African Large Telescope (SALT) near Sutherland, and we have unpopulated yet accessible areas suitable for radio telescopes such as the Square Kilometre Array near Carnarvon. You can visit SALT during the day (check out saao.ac.za for details), and there are various groups that offer night-sky viewing with small telescopes – ask at the planetarium, where you can also catch an informative show that enhances outdoor stargazing experiences. If you’re a hiker, consider the Bo-Karoo route near Loxton: they plan to incorporate “astro-art” for interesting astrophotography foregrounds. There are also plans for new co-living/co-working spaces near Sutherland designed for sky appreciation, such as snowstars.co.za – but current accommodation options on nearby farms include Rogge Cloof (pictured above), Tankwa River Lodge and Blesfontein.

THE KGALAGADI

The !Ae!Hai Kalahari Heritage Park is the only place in South Africa that has the status of Dark Sky Sanctuary (awarded by the International Dark-Sky Association). To reach !Xaus Lodge, located in the park, you have to cross 91 sand dunes. It is unimaginably remote and dark. According to visitors, the best way to appreciate the sky is “in the company of local people whose indigenous knowledge and traditional sky lore reflect a reverence for the sky and everything in it”. Wild animals roam past the camp, which may be a limitation or a bonus, depending on your point of view.

THE CEDERBERG

The Cederberg offers clear, dark skies as well as some incredibly photogenic rock-formation foregrounds – a combo that makes it great for astrophotography. Visiting the Cederberg observatory at Sanddrif is a popular Saturday-night activity; it’s run by a group of amateur astronomers who offer a slide show plus a peek through their telescopes. Further to the north, on the Doring River, Bliss & Stars offers multi-day wellness retreats, which include guided exploration of the sky, astrophotography and time with an impressive collection of telescopes.

BOTSWANA AND NAMIBIA

A glance at the map of light pollution on the planet (see darksitefinder.com/map) shows that vast parts of Namibia and Botswana are super-dark – and mostly cloudless. You may recall the stargazing options at Namibia’s &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge in VISI 107, but there’s also the “Cosmic Connections’’ experience that the Belmond group offers at its lodges in Botswana. A top-notch guide team includes an astronomer, an astrophotographer and locals who’ll share traditional stories of the sky.

TIMING, AND THE WEATHER

Full moon is not a good time to see the stars. With decent binoculars or a small telescope, a good time for stargazing is a few days after the new moon. In the early evening you’ll be able to marvel at features on the lunar surface and, once it’s set, you can enjoy the dark sky spectacle. Jupiter’s moons and Saturn’s rings are good targets for small telescopes – check info on planet visibility and moon phases at timeanddate.com/astronomy.

CONSIDER A GUIDE

A knowledgeable guide can be the difference between an enriching, life-changing experience and “standing around in the cold looking at unknown points of light”.

So how do you choose a guide?

• Professional astronomers typically hold advanced degrees in astronomy, and use large telescopes to make scientific discoveries and collect data. They’ll know a lot of physics, and can tell you about being a scientist of the stars.
• Amateur astronomers are typically enthusiastic hobbyists who often have more experience with small telescopes that people can “look through” with an eyepiece. They’ll probably know more about what’s cool to see in the sky.
• You may also encounter astronomy guides who will tell you facts they’ve learnt about the sky just because it’s their job – be aware you may need your own passion to feel engaged here. That said, any guide who provides loungers, blankets and duvets might be a friend forever!

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Not your traditional luxury lodge, Cheetah Plains redefines the conventional, translating urban sophistication into the bush.

With his work well known for its modern clean lines, celebrated architect and ARRCC director Stefan Antoni may not be the first name that springs to mind when looking for someone to design a game lodge in the famous Sabi Sands Game Reserve. It’s a choice that has nonetheless translated impressively well, creating sophisticated structures that manage the difficult trick of being different enough to stand out, yet still blending into the surrounding environment. Natural materials complement the shuttered cement with feature walls of hand-packed mica, panels of rusted Corten steel, stone and wood, helping it sit comfortably amid the scenery.

To create separation and to help preserve the large trees on the site, Stefan fractured the buildings to better fit into the landscape. From the small gym, three main structures fan out, each containing a generous wine cellar, a library, and an open-plan lounge, dining and bar area that overlooks a pool and boma. Named Mapogo, Karula and Mvula after famous wild cats that have been a significant part of the history of this area, each structure has four bedrooms evenly split either side of these main areas, all placed far enough apart to be private but close enough to have family and friends. To enhance the experience of being in the wild, the voluminous roofs are cantilevered so that the massive glass doors can glide fully open, giving the guests a seamless interaction with the bush that surrounds them.

The long lines in the lounge are softened by the sweeping bend of a substantial fireplace, with ample use of organic materials evident in the furniture and fittings. Apart from the stunning array of South African art on the walls and sculptures that are carefully placed in and out of the buildings, some of the decor pieces could be individual artworks themselves. Many were handcrafted by local artisans in collaboration with interior designers ARRCC and Okha.

Pierre Cronje made each impressive dark dining table from a single slice of heavy leadwood, keeping the natural shape of the tree, inserting brass inlays in the cracks and placing it on curved golden plinths. Over this hangs a playful chandelier of a cascading rise of glass, hand-blown bronzed bubbles by Martin Doller, making you feel as if you’ve dived into champagne. The beautiful drinks bars were carved from solid travertine blocks by skilled hands.

“Ecoluxe” is the key marketing buzzword here, and the entire high-end village is solar-powered – this includes the game-drive vehicles, which glide along in almost complete silence. The grey-water treatment plant recycles this precious resource for the gardens.

Stefan sensibly decided not to blend in with more “traditional” safari lodges, but rather to stand out with a bush home. It’s maybe not unique in itself, but where it is situated makes it so, like a cut diamond on a plain pebble beach.

Regardless of its slick splendour, and with the help of the welcoming warmth from the staff, it feels like a wealthy relative’s house – which, for a short time, can become your home from home.

For more information, visit cheetahplains.com.

Looking for more architectural or travel inspiration? Take a look at the Khwai Leadwood Lodge in Botswana.

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