A contemporary selection of African fashion and design is available in Joburg at a bespoke pop-up store of the local collective Merchants on Long.

Situated in the renowned Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank, the pop-up is located at the Okapi flagship store and gives visitors an opportunity to shop a wide range of carefully curated African fashion from some of the continent’s hottest makers.

Maki Oh, Emilia D, Dye Lab and Sidai Designs are some of the exclusive fashion and jewellery on offer, with updates on collections and ranges happening every week to keep stock fresh, limited and exciting.

What started as a store on Cape Town’s well-known Long Street in 2020 (which recently underwent a soft revamp), there is a shop in the V&A Waterfront, with pop-ups in Paris and London over the last few years. Most recently, a semi-permanent boutique in the Burlington Arcade, London ensures Africa is put on the fashion map globally. A full e-commerce offering also gives people the opportunity to shop at the click of a mouse. 

Many of South Africa’s great designers have been nurtured through brand growth by Merchants and currently, the offering includes Lukhanyo Mdingi, Sindiso Khumalo and Viviers studio. Lukhanyo, Viviers, Muso Maxwell and Thebe Magugu grace the rails of the brand-new pop-up store.

“Merchants on Long has a fantastic online store that delivers countrywide,” explains Jeanine Benjamin, Merchants on Long CEO, “but we know that being able to engage with the clothes, physically feeling and seeing the pieces, is the best way to appreciate the quality of craftsmanship and textile choice.

“Alongside some of our best South African fashion, the pop-up will also stock labels from designers across the continent. These include Banke Kuku and Dye Lab, who have a strong fanbase in Johannesburg. Plus many others have a sophisticated appeal, and yet have not been exposed to the Joburg customer.

“We want to be able to bring showcase these designers while supporting and celebrating African craftsmanship,” she adds. 

For more information, visit merchantsonlong.co.za.

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Local workwear brand Sweet-Orr has partnered with 10 South African industry leaders to showcase their talent and celebrate their inspiring stories.

For just over 150 years, local workwear brand Sweet-Orr has empowered generations of people in countless industries to do the work they love. It’s this commitment that has drawn Sweet-Orr to trailblazers, creative thinkers, and hard workers in every field; and why they’ve chosen to celebrate them and the remarkable work they do. Sweet-Orr has partnered with 10 South African industry leaders to showcase their talent and celebrate their inspiring stories with their new #LoveWhatYouDo campaign. It’s a ‘hat tip’ to the hardworking men and women from different industries, who all share one common trait: they have a deep-rooted love and passion for what they do. The 10 South African industry leaders are:

• Lyndi Sales – Contemporary artist
• Otto Du Plessis – Sculptor
• David Southwood – Photographer
• Hiram Koopman – Saxophonist
• Gino Lange – Custom car fabricator
• Bongani Mnisi – Conservationist
• Leighton Rathbone – Mixologist
• Thandie Dowery – Jewellery designer
• Jo Neser – Olive farmer
• Buddy Chellan – Professional BMXer

From this impressive pack, we interviewed five creatives whose dynamic and thoughtful work will, no doubt, excite you too:

Lyndi Sales

Contemporary artist Lyndi Sales has been creating a series of installations and artworks for the past 20 years. Her intricately made constructions shed light on the fragile nature of our existence and temporality.

Your work is so intricate – what attracts you to this kind of practice?

I like working with intricate small units that can be multiplied to form a much larger whole. The accumulation of multiples reminds me of the building blocks of the universe. The fragility of this intricate network that binds everything is elusive. I’ve always wanted to see beyond the veil of this three dimensional realm that we live in. I often look to the microcosm and the macrocosm as the realms unseen, only viewed through the aid of a microscope or a telescope. The intricacy of patterns in nature, in animals and in science is what intrigues me.  

What are the main themes that run through your work?

Temporality and transience are themes I find myself returning to. The existential questions around life and death.  I have always been interested in somehow portraying the metaphysical realms. I look for parallels between science and nature and the spiritual. And the connectivity that binds us all through the infinitely small and large. 

Are there any artists who inspire you?

I’m inspired by the autobiographical references in the work of Marina Abramovic and by her vulnerability, courage and passion. The sheer wonder of how Tara Donovan creates her installations and her patience and perseverance with an overlooked everyday object to speak its own language through multiplying it has inspired my practice.  

I often reflect upon the overwhelming emotion I felt when I saw The Night Café by Vincent Van Gogh. I’m in awe of his passion for his craft. And then Wassily Kandinsky for inspiring me to want to visualise the unseen through shape and colours. 

Thandie Dowery

Nomi Handmade, owned and founded by Thandie Dowery, takes pride in being a multicultural brand with Shweshwe roots in Sotho culture. Currently, the South African jewellery maker is targeting the global market and has stocked shops in the US, UK, and Europe. Nomi Handmade specialises in modern, minimalist pieces, and the brand’s go-to material is Shweshwe fabric, which features prominently in every design.

How did you get into jewellery design? 

I’ve always had a love for shweshwe, but having more of a minimalist taste, I couldn’t imagine wearing a garment made from the bold, vibrant prints. So my work around was to make accessories that could accent my outfits rather than be a main feature. Friends liked the pieces I would wear and literally stole them off my body – which, in turn, happened to them too, making me realise that perhaps I was onto something. And so my jewellery business was born.

Can you tell us more about the meaning behind the name Nomi Handmade? 

Nomi Handmade is named after mom, Nomgcobo, whose nickname was Nomi. Nomgcobo means happiness in Xhosa. Coincidentally, my mom also converted to Judaism and the name woman converts take on is also Nomi. The Hebrew meaning is beautiful and delightful. Both meanings I think are fitting for the bright, colourful pieces in the range, which aims to make the wearer feel beautiful and inspire happiness and delight.

If you could collaborate with another local designer, who would you choose and why? 

iloni. I absolutely love the metal embellishments they use on their rubber jewellery pieces. It would be great to collaborate on a necklace and bracelet range, incorporating shweshwe with their brass pipe and rod fastenings.

Otto Du Plessis

Founder of Bronze Age Foundry in Cape Town, Otto Du Plessis is a sculptor who is passionate about creating figurative bronze work.

What attracted you to using bronze as a medium?

Bronze is an incredible medium, because of its strength and durability one is capable of making sculptures and furniture that would not last if it was in other mediums (wood /ceramic cement etc). The incredible patinas or colours that can be obtained and translate your sculpting language  beautifully.

Are there any themes that run through your work?

Most of my work is quite organic – it is about the connection between animals and humans and the life we share. I see myself as a sculptor and a designer. My work has an element of realism and a contemporary finish and includes furniture, vases and sculptures. Southern Guild represents me and with them my work has travelled the world at all the major art and design fairs. The world of art and design is starting to merge which means that designers are becoming as important as artists and their work is becoming collectable. Southern Guild has locally and Internationally become one of the most important galleries and I am proud to be represented by them.

Which artists and sculptors inspire you?

So many, if I have to name two it will be Egon Tanya and William Kentridge – they make it look so easy and their work is effortless. I have worked and cast bronzes for various different artists including Kentridge, Brett Murray, David Brown, Kevin Brand, Dylan Lewis, Wim Botha, and even the late Eduardo Villa. What I really appreciate about most artists is their approach to the work they do. Sculptures  are so multifaceted in regards to the process followed to get to the final product. Bruce Arnott had a major influence on a couple of famous sculptors. His work was all about the simplified form and essence of the human, he was a remarkable teacher and craftsman and has taught me a lot about finishing bronzes.

David Southwood

For over 20 years David Southwood has been capturing photos that have asked questions with craft, humour, and empathy. David’s work has been shown in The South African National Gallery, The Finnish Museum of Photography, The Christoph Merian Stiftung, the collection of the Constitutional Court of South Africa, The Goethe Institut, and The Spier Art Collection. His work has been featured in numerous accredited publications, too.

What drew you to photography and what keeps you interested in the medium?

As Gary Winogrand said, ‘Photography shows you what the world looks like.’ This is what drew me initially. This fascination with light and materials grew into and combined with the possibilities for incessant travel and meeting a diverse range of people: from Pollsmoor inmates to Philosophers via the man in the street. The man in the street is the most important person for me, and the sooner I return to straight-up portraiture, the better. Tooling around unknown cities on my own with the camera is the Golden hour, no matter the time of day. Don’t let anyone tell you that the Golden hour is dusk; that’s fiction from the top drawer. 

What in your eyes makes the perfect shot?

A camera is like an amplifier for the curious which enables the user to magnify and distill surface and interior into, ideally, an elegant synthesis. If this sleek synthesis manages to garner more than 180 likes, then it can be adjudged ‘perfect.’

What are your career highlights?

• Meeting William Eggleston in Spain and managing to somehow make my question hit home through all the hard tack which he was sinking.
• Working for two weeks in Pollsmoor. Profound education, not fun. 
• Sneaking through the back door of MOMA with a specialised lanyard and card to meet a curator, thus avoiding a very long queue.

Hiram Koopman

Since an early age Hiram Koopman has been passionate about creating music. He has collaborated with numerous artists from South Africa and around the world, including Ken Raynolds, Neville D, Emo Adams, Vicky Sampson, Elvis Blue, Anton Goosen to name a few.

How did you discover your love for music?

I come from a musical family, and specifically my dad has been playing saxophone for 50 years. Growing up, playing in the church band every Sunday with my dad, grandpa, brothers and uncles cultivated a love for music from a very young age. Moving on from playing in church to bigger stages, theatres and festivals, the love for music even grew bigger. Also, travelling overseas to Europe, UK, Canada, America, New Zealand and Australia, you realise that music in actual fact is a ‘universal language’ and that no matter where you play in the world, it will always speak to someone, somewhere, somehow.

Is there a genre of music that you are particularly drawn to?

I grew up listening to great Jazz artists such as George Benson, Al Jarreau, Stevie Wonder just to mention a few. My parents used to listen to older jazz artists like The Commodores, El Fritzgerald and Barry White. My dad had a huge collection to B-bob jazz such as Charlie Parker, John Coltrane and Miles Daves. I have a broad spectrum of music that I really love, from Rock to Pop, Hip Hop and Jazz. I love playing Jazz though. It feels like a ‘love at first sight’, feeling when playing it.

Are there any musicians who inspire you?

Yes, I believe that our planet has been blessed with extraordinary musicians that inspire me in making a change in people’s life through music. One such person is Kirk Whalum, a professional saxophonist and humanitarian. His career as a musician started as a young boy, and his big breakthrough started when he joined Whitney Houston’s band, and later started his own band. Not only did he start his own career but also invested in multiple community projects where he helps the less fortunate in supplying basic needs such as houses, schools and food.

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Rich Mnisi’s eponymous brand has become an icon of South African contemporary culture. The LISOF graduate pushes the boundaries of fashion, and is now taking the same approach to furniture.

2016: UNTHINKING

Unthinking was my first collection, debuting the year after RICH MNISI was founded. It was a representation of things I grew up seeing in township culture that were minimised or not acknowledged, especially queer identity. It encouraged “unthinking” and accepting reality. I don’t usually speak about the matters that are close to me – I rather do it visually, with triggers that help people see things in a different light.

2018: COCA-COLA COLLAB

The RICH MNISI Coke Threds capsule collection was a collaboration with Coca-Cola geared towards a younger generation. As much as my aesthetic is youthful, the silhouettes I go for are quite mature: pleated skirts and tailored jackets. I almost didn’t fit the demographic because I wasn’t designing hoodies and T-shirts… But the collection sold out! It was a beautiful study because it revealed that people like to style themselves, and they like to have an opportunity to mix different aesthetics. It’s fashion; it’s meant to be explored.

2018: SOUTHERN GUILD BEGINNINGS

When I designed Nwa-Mulamula’s Chaise and Nwa-Mulamula’s Tears for Southern Guild, it was to pay tribute to my great-grandmother Nwa-Mulamula, a woman I never knew but whose story I grew up hearing and wanted to honour. These pieces later went with Southern Guild to Salon Art + Design in New York and PAD London. Furniture design had been a long-term goal for me – but Southern Guild fast-tracked that by 10 years! Because the gallery leans towards unconventional pieces, it has been amazing to go into a world where I shouldn’t make anything conventional. It’s an extension of my fashion brand.

2019: LABOLA

Once I started exploring the idea of Nwa-Mulamula in my designs, she became my artistic muse, guiding me from season to season as I imagined her in different scenarios. My Lobola collection came from me daydreaming about her lobola ceremony, and what it would have been like.

2021: KU HAHAMA

The Ku Hahama collection was inspired by a dream my mother had of a snake, which reminded me of the mythological god Bumba, who created the planet by vomiting stars, animals and humans. My entire family has a massive fear of snakes, so my mother’s dream was filled with terror – but she was also mesmerised by the beauty of the snake. There was a similarity in this to the pain Bumba went through to birth creation. It’s the duality that informed Ku Hahama.

2021: NYOKA

Nyoka is my first solo show with Southern Guild. The title means “snake” in Xitsonga, and these furniture pieces are an extension of the ideas behind Ku Hahama. I am so proud of this collection, which was created through so much conversation, collaboration, craftsmanship, labour and humility. It’s been a fun and insightful journey to witness my designs transform into perfect pieces of art through the work of sculptors, bead artists, rug weavers, industrial designers, foundry workers and more.

2022: ADIDAS COLLAB

The collection pays homage to my Tsonga roots, focusing on identity and the spirit of cultural pride. The range consists of clashing, brightly coloured pieces featuring abstract patterns and animal prints that nod to my heritage.

Looking for more on local design? Read about Haldane Martin’s design journey over the last 20 years.

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The world of luxury fashion and high-end kitchen design comes together in Officine Gullo‘s latest collaboration with Edgardo Osorio, founder and Creative Director of the Italian luxury footwear brand Aquazzura.

Andrea Gullo, Director of Officine Gullo, and Edgardo Osorio, founder and Creative Director of the Italian luxury footwear brand Aquazzura, have created a tailor-made kitchen for Edgardo’s Venetian residence: Palazzo Corner Spinelli.

Located on the Grand Canal, the residence dates back to the end of the fifteenth century and is characterised by architecture that is representative of the transition from the Gothic to the Renaissance in Venetian art.

An Officine Gullo kitchen was installed on the first floor in Osorio’s apartment, tailor-made by the designer, his residence and his brand. Upon discovering Officine Gullo, one of the aspects that most struck Edgardo Osorio was the richness of the colors and the attention to detail curated in Florence.

A turquoise kitchen with nickel finishes was created for him. The cooking appliances and refrigeration at professional performance level fit perfectly into the environment, characterised by a striped painted parquet floor and hand-decorated walls. Exotic animals, flowers and brightly coloured trees recall motifs of fine 18th-century Chinese porcelain and transport the observer to an exotic garden and to distant places, as Osorio tells us:

“The initial idea for the kitchen came about after visiting Villa Necchi in Milan. In the villa, there’s a room that features a hand-painted winter garden and I immediately fell in love with it. I always wanted to create a kitchen that resembled a living room and to do so I retrieved botanical drawings from the 18th century from which I drew inspiration for the trees and plants I wanted to use, mixing the flora of different seasons of the year.”

Osorio’s creativity was supported by Officine Gullo’s tailoring, following the designer’s wishes by forming a one-of-a-kind kitchen just as the Creative Director of Aquazzura had imagined:

“During the renovation of my new home in Venice, I was looking for a special kitchen that was truly unique. I’ve never been a big fan of kitchen environments and for this reason I wanted to design one where spending time was a pleasure. I wanted to reproduce a winter garden that was filled with colour, animals, and trees from different seasons of the year. The walls are all hand painted and Aquazzura’s iconic logo, the pineapple, is featured in the doors and knobs for a whimsical and personal touch. Creating this means the kitchen has truly become the heart of my home.”

The environment was designed based on Edgardo Osorio’s specific needs, to accommodate special moments spent with family and friends:

“I’m used to organising many private events and occasions, and my kitchen is often used for dinners and lunches with friends who come to visit me in Venice. Gullo kitchens are beautiful, colourful, full of unique details and handcrafted in Florence. For this reason, it was important that the first project for Aquazzura Casa was to be carried out with a company that could create an extraordinary kitchen environment that above all shared our values.”

Although belonging to different sectors, Officine Gullo and Aquazzura share common values in their constant search for beauty and perfection in details, a signature of Florentine craftsmanship. Andrea Gullo tells us:

“I had the pleasure of being introduced to Edgardo by mutual friends, but I was well aware of the success of his women’s footwear brand. I immediately appreciated the high-quality details and the unmistakable elegance of his creations. Both of our companies currently boast a presence in the main international capitals and our respective customers want almost the same thing: unique products capable of fully responding to the indispensable needs of functionality and style.”

For more information, visit officinegullo.com

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Interior designer Giorgio Tatsakis, who worked on the Morningside eatery which opened in 2019, is once again in charge of designing the Mediterranean-inspired eatery’s interiors.

Ethos restaurant is set to make some major moves – the luxurious Joburg eatery is moving to a new space at Oxford Parks in Rosebank and has teamed up with acclaimed Chef Luke Dale Roberts who be assisting in designing the new menu in collaboration with newly appointed Executive Chef, Ken Phuduhudu.

Interior designer Giorgio Tatsakis, together with his father Chris and SuP Architecture, is once again at the helm to create the restaurant’s luxurious setting. Having done so successfully in the previous space, Giorgio is keeping the new spaces’ interiors synonymous with the brand.

Pre-Covid, Giorgio and his father, travelled abroad to countries including Greece, Italy, Dubai and the United Kingdom for inspiration and trends to incorporate into Ethos. This includes Giorgio’s favourite feature; the new ceiling baffles which consist of a special material imported from France suspended from the ceiling, as well as rich-in-texture Arabescato marble from Italy.

The new menu will pay homage to the Mediterranean with a mix of authentic and honest dishes, and will combine traditional and modern techniques. Diners can expect dishes such as Iberico pork neck skewers with ancho scented romesco sauce as well as Baba Ganoush, lamb kofte and many more exciting courses.

The new venue, which will open early July, will boast more indoor seating, an addition of outdoor seating, chef’s table seating, a 14-seater private dining room, a generous bar and an exquisite wine cellar.

For more visit ethosrestaurant.co.za.

Looking for more on locally designed spaces? Take a look at Barrington’s in Plett.

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New omni-channel retail experience We Are Egg, located in Cape Town’s Cavendish Square, blurs the lines between in-store and online shopping.

The brainchild of Paul Simon and Arie Fabian, the concept is to present artfully curated local and international brands in one creative retail space. Self described as a platform for makers to stand on and the future of retail, a conscious shift has been made on how consumers experience and think about shopping.

Inclusivity and originality were key pillars during the planning and execution of this new store, which will have iterations rolling out in Durban and Rosebank in 2021.

A tech-focused approach ensures free in-store Wi-Fi, an app for on-tap water and an in-store assistance call function.

The designer space is home to a clothing store, hair salon, wellness offerings, flower stall, piercing studio, sneaker hub and food arena, featuring restaurants and eateries such as Pot Luck Club, Cheyne’s and Unframed Ice Cream.

Accessories brands include Pina Jewels, Missibaba, Sealand, Rowdy, Pichulik, Black Betty, Dr Pachanga and Famke, while Beauty brands featured include Swiitch, Skoon and Glow Theory. From a fashion perspective, you’ll find Orphan Street Clothing, AKJP, Maison Mara, Skhanda World, Artclub and Friends, Ogun, Float, Shelflife, Stiebeuel, Iconic Black, New Balance, Puma, Converse, Lily Label, Selfi and Unknown Union. In the Living section, you’ll find Haus by Hertex, The Chairman Home and The T-Shirt Bed Co. Wellness includes Wazoogles, Honest Chocolate, KURO-Bō and Nanuki.

We Are Egg is now open at Cavendish Connect, Dreyer St, Claremont, Cape Town. For more information, visit weareegg.co.za.

Looking for more cool local spaces? Take a look at Always Welcome – the cooperative store in Johannesburg.

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British architectural designer John Pawson, CBE, who was a speaker at Design Indaba 2019, chats philosophy, design challenges and what architecture means to him.

Whether it’s been residential projects, monasteries, museums, bridges or objects, John Pawson has spent more than 30 years championing simplicity in his work. Here, he highlights standout projects and shares how spatial themes continue to inform his practice decades later.

Pawson House. Image credit: Jens Webber

Traditional architecture, interior design, the design of objects… for you, it all falls under the architecture umbrella. What does architecture mean to you?

For me, architecture is building with added intention. Rather than simply setting out to enclose space in whatever fashion and by whatever means, architecture is about precise arrangements of mass, proportion, surface and light, which come together to make atmosphere. My aim has always been for everything I do to carry the essence of the philosophy. Whether a fork, a bridge, a bowl or an entire monastery, it’s all architecture and each separate piece of work should contain all of the thinking.

Is there a specific project you feel particularly connected to?

I always say that my favourite project is the one on which I’m currently working. When a new commission comes in, my engagement with the design process is very intense. For a long period, I just keep my head down and work away at it. Having said that, my ongoing work with a community of Cistercian monks to create an entirely new monastery in the Czech Republic is very special. The cloister and church were consecrated in 2004, but we are still adding elements of the monastic city – last year, the foundations of a chapel for visitors were laid.

Image credit: Orla Connolly

What is your design philosophy?

My philosophy is shaped by a set of defining spatial themes that I set out in my book Minimum, published more than 20 years ago: mass, light, structure, ritual, landscape, order, containment, repetition, volume, essence and expression. I am interested in the quality a space or an object has when it can no longer be improved by subtraction. Every time I sit down to design, these thoughts are at the front of my mind.

What do you think is the biggest design challenge society faces today?

Sustainability is obviously a huge issue in architecture. This relates to choices of materials and ecologically sound approaches to the way buildings heat and cool themselves, but also resonates through so many other considerations as one is working on a design.

Are there any projects coming up in 2019 that you’re excited about working on?

It’s hard to pick and choose, because I’m always excited about all of the projects on my current to-do list. If I ever stopped being excited, I should have to ask myself some serious questions…

To see more projects, visit johnpawson.com.

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Atang Tshikare’s Afrofuturistic designs have a dynamic texture that plays on the senses and sets the tone for a new pulse in African design.

Atang Tshikare has an inherent willingness to explore and an unending commitment to refine his art, which has led him to experiment and produce work with leather, fabric, wood, concrete, ceramic and more. “My influences are a myriad of abstract cultures, from traditional ones to post-imaginative utopias. I run through them all. When I think of my work, it all comes together in sound, sight, touch and smell,” says the multidisciplinary artist, who hails from Bloemfontein.

Atang Tshikare’s collaboration with interior design studio OKHA. Read more about it here.

His fresh take on an African aesthetic and his passion to create work that evokes both a sense of curiosity and an underlying familiarity are firmly embedded in making an abstract future tangible. “There are young women and men who are creating their own solutions for today’s world,” says Atang. “Decor, design and architecture for them are not limited to traditional forms, but the abstract nature that weaves the common and unknown, the great and the ugly. It’s all about highlighting personal viewpoints, and I believe those who are persistent in their mindsets are going to reap the rewards.”

Atang Tshikare’s collaboration with interior design studio OKHA. Read more about it here.

Atang’s career is morphing into a new form of expression. “The existing creativity within me is becoming more radical. I would like to be remembered for creating a design language that articulates a confident narrative of self, that uplifts generations and boosts their sense of self-worth and self-love, and that encourages forward thinking.”

In this video, Atang also talks about his journey, collaborations and why it’s important for emerging designers to take the unorthodox route. See more of his work at atangtshikare.com.

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Textile design studio The Ninevites, founded by Nkuli Mlangeni, weaves a modern story that pays homage to heritage and tradition.

Nkuli Mlangeni

“I am a dreamer. I enjoy coming up with ideas and starting them, but I haven’t always been good at finishing them. So, for me having a collective of people to collaborate and work with is really important.

Nonkhita Rug

“All of the women in my life have been highly influential in my development. As a child, I was always surrounded by smart, brave, inspiring women. “I’ve been fortunate enough to travel around the world.

Through my travels, I’ve seen beautiful places and things, met amazing people, and learnt a lot about myself and the world. Travel has had a major influence on how I choose to live and what I do.

“To me, luxury is having the time and the ability to do what I love for a living.”

See more designs at theninevites.net.

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Designer Thabisa Mjo, founder of interior and product design firm Mash.T Design Studio, who is featured on page 275 in VISI’s 100th collector’s edition, talks about the importance of character development, her journey as a designer and valuable learnings.

VISI’s 100th Issue is on sale now at selected retailers (full stockist list here). You can also buy the digital version of the issue via magsathome.co.za, zinio.com and magzter.com.

Missed our catch-up with artist Jody Paulsen? Watch it here. We also chatted to milliner Crystal Birch and multidisciplinary artist Atang Tshikare.

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