Twyg announced this year’s Sustainable Fashion Awards winners on 17 November 2022 at the Mount Nelson hotel in Cape Town. Designers and brands were awarded for their implementation of sustainable, ethical, circular and regenerative design.

We chat with award founder and designer Jackie May about the future of SA design and the inspiration behind the awards.

Tell us about how the awards came about.

The concept emerged over a dinner date with two close friends. We were brainstorming how to amplify and extend Twyg’s mission.

What are the criteria for choosing winners?

Each of the 10 categories has slightly different criteria, but essentially we are promoting designers whose work is paving a way for a kinder, fairer, circular and sustainable fashion ecosystem. Our ethos is captured by Twyg’s manifesto which you can find here.

How have you watched design evolve in the past four years?

From the nominations, we have seen a clear shift towards circular design. In our first year, there were very few brands working with waste and upcycling. The focus then was mostly on quality, slow fashion and trans-seasonal design. Although these criteria are still very important, we have seen incredible progress in the use of circular design techniques.

I think that storytelling has also become more interesting and relevant. You can see evidence of this in Cleo Droomer’s work.

Has your criteria for the awards evolved with the change in design trends?

We continue to refine the process. Last year, we consulted with Eco Standard South Africa to improve the entry form. This year we had a new jury. Besides the criteria listed on the website, the judges use a rubric for the judging. This rubric looks at 1) fashion qualities and at 2) sustainability.

What are your predictions for the future of design, specifically in South Africa?

We are so well placed to be a global leader in circular and sustainable design. Firstly, South Africans are incredibly resourceful at making do with what we have – and are doing this beautifully. As it becomes increasingly obvious that we need to protect natural resources, reusing and remaking what is already in use should be the starting point of all design. Secondly, designers and makers will continue to shape our fashion ecosystem, not retailers and industrial manufacturers. The stories told by these makers and designers through their fashion and product are shaping and rebuilding our national identity.

The key challenge to solve is how we move forward as a country in a sustainable way while creating jobs. I’m excited to see how designers unlock this conundrum.  

What are some trends you’ve seen in terms of eco/sustainable design?

Besides the circular principles of remaking and reusing, there is a beautiful return to nature – designing with nature, rather than against it – and to understanding the farm-to-fibre supply chain. South Africa is a major supplier to the world of mohair and wool, providing jobs and contributing to the country’s economy. I’m very excited to see how more and more designers use the natural fibres that are grown here. I’m also interested to see how the hemp sector develops and what transpires for the fashion industry.

After a week-long judging process, 27 finalists were selected and 10 category winners were announced on the Thursday evening.

The winners of the Sustainable Fashion Awards are as follows:

Accessory Award: This award recognises an accessory brand that implements ethical labour practices, limits toxic chemicals and uses sustainable materials to create a quality item and considers end-of-life. The winner of this category is PICHULIK.

Innovative Design and Materials Award presented by Polo South Africa:  This award is presented to a designer who has used innovative techniques to reduce fashion’s negative impact and shows commitment to using sustainable fabrics. The winner of this category is Droomer.

Nicholas Coutts Award: This award honours the talented young designer Nicolas Coutts. Nicholas, who beautifully used and explored traditional crafts and techniques in his design, tragically lost his life at the beginning of 2019. This award is presented to a designer who uses artisanal craft techniques such as weaving, embroidery or botanical dyeing to make fashion that foregrounds, celebrates and values the skills of the people who make the garments. The winner of this category is Laaniraani, who wins R10 000 from Nicholas’ family.

Student Award from Levi’s South Africa: This award is presented to a student who has produced a garment or collection that addresses the challenges of sustainability in the most exciting and beautiful way. The winner of this category is Aidan Peters.

Textiles or Mills Award: This award is presented to a South African textile maker or mill that uses natural, regenerative fibres, non-toxic dyes and finishes, and closed-loop systems. The winner of this category is ZURI and IMANI. 

Trans-seasonal Award: This award is presented to a collection, garment or brand that promotes trans-seasonal, multi-functionality and versatile style. The winner of this category is The BAM collective.

Retail Award: This award is presented to a retailer or retailing initiative that enhances sustainability, including pre-loved/gently worn, swap shops, garment rental, and similar activities. The winner of this category is Merchants on Long.

CMT or Manufacturer Award: This award is presented to a ‘cut, make and trim’ factory or manufacturer of clothes or accessories that is socially and environmentally conscious and/or whose business practices are socially and environmentally responsible. The winner of this category is Sparrow Society.

Influencer Award: This award is presented to a personality or think-fluencer who has actively promoted slow, sustainable fashion over the last 12 months and who has sparked relevant conversations. This person has also explained sustainable issues factually and has cautioned against harming nature on social media and other platforms. The winner of this category is Khensani Mohlatlole.

Changemaker Award presented by Country Road: This award, which is not open for entries is presented to a designer whose career has embraced sustainable and circular design practices. The winners with the highest scores in the design categories (Student, Accessory, Trans-seasonal, Coutts, Innovative Design and Materials Award) were judged against the criteria set for the Changemaker Award. The winner of the Changemaker Award who has been awarded R100 000.00 by Country Road is Droomer.

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In celebration of the spirit of playfulness and creativity, the new collab between vans and Crayola is inspired by imagination, self-expression and colour.

Over a decade after their initial 2010 collab, the iconic sport and fashion brand and well-known art supply staple have joined forces in a new fresh range of apparel, accessories and sneakers. “Crayola encourages everyone to “step up” and colour outside the lines,” said Warren Schorr, Vice President of Business Development & Global Licensing, Crayola. “We are excited to reunite with Vans to offer a collection with a fresh take on creativity.”

The collection includes the Authentic Van Doren Inspired and Authentic DIY/Sketch Your Way styles, updated with playful colouring-book style repeat prints that give the shoes an artistic edge The white upper of the ComfyCush SK8-Hi®, for kids, is a blank canvas ready to be personalised to make them uniquely “yours”.

READ MORE: Vans X Van Gogh Museum

Apparel and accessories include durable cotton tees and hoodies adorned with hand-drawn illustrations, a brushed poly backpack with printed details and Vans x Crayola crew socks.

The Vans x Crayola Collection is now available at select retailers and at Vans.co.za.

Looking for more design inspiration? Sign up to our weekly newsletter, here.

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South African fashion designer Rich Mnisi has joined forces with international streetwear and sports label adidas in a new line that is inspired by local heritage.

The collection pays homage to Rich’s Tsonga roots, focusing on identity and the spirit of cultural pride. The range consists of clashing, brightly coloured pieces featuring abstract patterns and animal prints that nod to Mnisi’s heritage.

Comprised of 12 pieces, the wear is adaptable for a performance-based lifestyle but also adapts to an urban street style. The bold clothing includes pieces created for swimming, running, cycling and training. 

Fusing style, colour and function, the collection is completed with a series of iconic footwear adorned with Rich’s signature prints. Each piece can be worn as a collective or works as a stand-alone statement item.

The range is also sustainable, with hero pieces being made in part with recycled materials and Parley Ocean Plastic, minimising the impact of ocean pollution.

“I am immensely proud to present this collection in collaboration with adidas, an iconic brand that I grew up seeing on People of Colour that were rewriting the arts,” explains Rich Mnisi. “It has been a pleasure to bring my designs to classic pieces. We have created a bright, unique collection that reflects my love for the idea of community and heritage, individuality, and self-expression. Our aim was to create pieces that support life on and off the sports field.”

The adidas x Rich Mnisi collection will be available from 25th February 2022 at adidas.co.za and adidas Originals and Performance stores, with prices ranging from R379 to R3599.

Looking for more on local design? Take a look at Rich Mnisi’s previous capsule collection with Karabo Poppy.

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The Slum Studio is an Accra-based ethical clothing brand by Sel Kofiga that turns textile offcuts and second-hand clothing waste into wearable art. Bigger than artful upcycling, The Slum Studio brings the ills of fast fashion and excessive consumption, as well as the important stories of Ghanaian marketplaces, to the forefront of apparel lovers’ minds.

Born of Sel’s multidisciplinary nature, The Slum Studio is an arresting mix of performance, installation and abstract expressionism that seeks to illuminate the nuances of how the body and objects co-exist in space. It began as a medium to discuss the Kayayei, female head porters – as young as eight – who are hired to transport bales of second-hand clothing from importers to retailers to storage to consumers and everywhere in between. They are the too often forgotten and underserved driving force behind second-hand clothing redistribution in Ghana, particularly Kantamanto Market.

It’s in the bustling aisles of Kantamanto – one of the biggest and busiest second-hand clothing markets in West Africa – that Sel’s creative process begins. Here starts the afterlife of the hundreds of bales of clothes that come into the country every week from the Global North – USA, UK, Korea, France, Germany. Sel documents this afterlife by chatting with resellers, asking questions, taking photos and videos. From these conversations, he creates a story that translates into colour palettes and symbols all connected to the market. He collects cotton, curtains and offcuts, brings them to his studio for washing and hand-painting, and then turns them into new clothes alongside his collaborators.

His message: “If you’re in the Global North, don’t say you don’t know that donated clothes end up in Africa. Your actions of donating your used clothes may be a better option, which comes with goodwill, but if you truly care about the clothes, start thinking about what you want to see happen to them next. You have the power to buy, so you have the same power to challenge and question the players involved. You can challenge mass production because it feeds from our purchasing power. You can seek transparency and accountability because it is your right to know what really goes on. We can do this as a collective body, if you play your part and we play our part, we can bring the change we want to see.”

To learn more about what goes on in the fashion industry, visit Dead White Man’s Clothes and OR Foundation on Instagram (@theorispresent).

h/t: designboom.com

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The latest collection from the global sports brand PUMA is an effort to reduce the impact of fashion on the environment.

As we move towards a more sustainable future, it’s no surprise that retailers are taking a cue from consumers. This environmentally considerate twist on consumerism is a step in the right direction for the fashion industry and environmentalists alike. According to The Pretty Planeteer, 95% of textile waste can be recycled and that mass comes in as a whopping 13 million tons of missed opportunities globally. It sounds massive (because it is) – and it’s brought about because the average consumer discards about 31,75kg of clothing per year.

Apart from thrifting, clothing swops and buying less – we can also shop more sustainably. This can take the form of buying from local, small businesses or reaching for an international brand that’s made an effort to honour the growing environmental concern. PUMA’s latest collection, RE.GEN is a great example of making the most of materials (that would ordinarily go to waste) to produce items of clothing and footwear that tick both the sustainability and style box. 

In a move towards revaluing recycled material and giving what would ordinarily be discarded a second chance, the PUMA RE.GEN collection combines recycled material from three sources: PUMA’s leather off-cuts, cotton off-cuts from the textile industry and plastic that is recycled to produce polyester.

The collection is inspired by the recycling process and falls in line with PUMA’s goal to have nine out of every 10 products made sustainable materials by 2025. “In our sustainability strategy, we focus on making the largest possible positive impact, so our customers know that by buying a PUMA product, they buy a sustainably sourced product,” said Stefan Seidel, Head of Corporate Sustainability at PUMA. “We will continue to push hard to live up to our mission statement of being ‘Forever Better’.”

The collection features the RE.GEN Oslo Maja (R1 899), Cropped Jacket (R1 799), Tee (R649), AOP Tee (R799), Wide Leg Pants (R1 299) and Woven Skirt (R1 299) for women while men’s gear includes the RE.GEN Oslo City (R2 299), Jacket (R2 499), Woven Pants (R1 799) and AOP Tee (R899). Completing the collection are the RE.GEN Shoulder Bag (R799), Deconstructed Low Curve Cap (R399) and RE.GEN Short Visor Cap (R399).

PUMA RE.GEN is available from Thursday, 20 May from PUMA.com, PUMA stores, Archive online, X-Trend, Superbalist, Shesha and selected retailers.

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Sibling duo Peter and Inge Claassens are the brains behind local fashion label Oney&Claass, a vibrant brand that embraces art and fashion fused into one. We chat to them about the inception of their brand and where it’s headed in the future.

How did you get to fashion design? 

I have always had an interest in tactile art, one could say it has been dormant in me to explore design since a young age. When I was in my second year at University my lecturers suggested exploring textile design. That was the beginning of the end, I knew I had to submerge myself in textiles. Years later I got a job at a small textile printing company and finally, during lockdown in March 2020 I started exploring patterns which ultimately led to Oney&Claass. 

What does your clothing represent? 

Clothing today is seen as a social marker, Yes? Oney&Claass represent to world beyond, one that I fabricated and disappear to when I want to escape reality that surrounds me. It is bizarre and makes no sense most of the time. I am of the opinion this is a representation of life in a sense… It’s a little crazy and we have to find an escape to truly find ourselves and above all we should never take ourselves too seriously. The key to life is to find oneself and have fun along the way. 

Oney&Claass represent an eccentric individual that exercise an affinity for the bold and offbeat. 

What is the process from conception to final product? 

I have volumes of my personal artworks, when I really enjoy one I will have it digitally scanned and then start manipulating it to be suitable to print onto a fabric. Once I have the artwork ready, possible designs are considered and what I envision this artwork to look like as a final garment. When I have decided on a style it is time to decide what fabric will work best for a specific cut. Many factors are at play, the way the fabric drapes, how the fabric prints and how much of the artwork will be seen once the final garment is made. When I am satisfied that all the prep work is satisfactory, the material gets printed by myself and the garments are sent off to be made. 

Tell us about your ranges? 

Ranges like the ‘Capuchin’ is a tropical colour explosion and was our first feature. I had done the illustration exactly one year ago in March 2020 as a commission piece for my sister. The design is now available as a winter jumper. 

‘Summer’s Gone’ is a range consisting of illustrations borrowed from my earlier work at University and featured on dungarees, jumpers and crops. 

‘Eli’ is our latest range of sweatpants inspired by an elephant design. 

‘Conquest’ is a range of multipurpose, lightweight rain jackets consisting of four beautiful abstract designs. 

I am currently working on the ‘Juniper’ line which is inspired by my sister, it is a female range we are launching in summer 2021. 

The beauty about our garments is that they are for ‘The Individual’ and can be worn all year round. Wearing them is a statement in itself to ensure you stand out from the crowd. 

Where can people get hold of your clothes? 

We have an online shop @ www.oneyclaass.com. We have a Facebook and Instagram page @oneyclaass that keeps our tribe updated on sales, giveaways and new collections that are released. Follow us and stay updated with our brand. Top all of this with free courier services to all major cities in South Africa. 

What is the ethos behind the brand? 

We want to establish a recognisable High-End retail brand. Delivering excellent bespoke quality clothing at an affordable price and maintaining a 100% South African identity that invites you to find our vibe and find your tribe. 

Where do you see clothing brands headed in SA? 

I think it is a very exciting time for fashion in South Africa. There are always blessing and curses with everything that happens in life and I think Covid 19 has pushed people out of there comfort zone. They are more daring and boredom has taught them to be creative. A deep sense of cultural identity is taking hold in the wider South African fashion industry. I feel that brands are relating more to their localised markets and that excites me. 

Where do you look for inspiration? 

Alexander McQueen is an all-time favourite. Also, Jeremy Scott, I love what he has done at Moschino. He has proven that if you have a vision to change something you should definitely pursue it, the masses will follow. Naturally my obsession with art plays a role in my decision-making process. In late 2017 I went to see a life changing exhibition in Berlin on post-modern and modern artist after that Wassily Kandinsky and Joan Miro left their mark on me. 

How do you decide on colourways? 

Colourways usually choose themselves. This might sound like a bizarre statement, but they are the backdrops or context of my illustration or artwork. It is the context in which the drama unfolds. For example; if you take a look at my ‘illustrated dungaree’ or ‘illustrated jumper’ you will notice that the illustrations are rather sensitive and naïve, this determined that there should only be small pops of colour on a white background. 

Of course, I also look at current trends to incorporate to an extent. 

What does the future hold for you? 

We are very excited about the future of our new brand. We are working relentlessly making the most of the opportunities we have been exposed to in such a short time. Hopefully showcasing some designs at SA Fashion week in 2022 and elsewhere. We will be taking the brand to the international market and I will keep on exploring the infinite world of fashion and textiles. Watch this space! 

See more of their work on their website and on Instagram

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From New York to the world – iconic Keith Haring designs are now available in an exclusive capsule collection by Converse.

The notion of breaking barriers is synonymous with Keith Haring’s work – whose signature style serves as a physical representation of his belief that creativity holds the power to change the world. From the get-go, where his work covered New York subway billboards, Keith’s career was fueled by the desire to stand up for the underdogs and uplift the oppressed – all the while ensuring that art remained accessible to everybody.

This attitude is something that Converse embodies too – All Stars have been laced to the feet of many change makers whose actions have rippled across society in a variety of forms. From artists and activists, and everyone else in between – the iconic silhouette holds stories on its soles.

For the first time, Keith’s drawings appear on classic Converse sneakers and apparel – these include the likes of the Chuck 70, Chuck Taylor All Star and Pro Leather, as well as the Run Star Hike. Prized pieces for street art aficionados and Converse lovers alike.

Converse x Keith Haring is available on the Converse website, as well as Superbalist, Shelflife, Lemkus, Archive, Inline, Crosstrainer and Baseline.

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Local actress and human rights activist Nomzamo Mbatha has joined forces with streetwear brand PUMA, releasing her new Shandu Collection, a tribute to the tribe into which she was born in KwaMashu, her grandmother and women around the globe who deserve respect and empowerment.

The Shandu range consists of accessories, apparel and footwear revolving around Nomzamo’s love for travel and her nomadic jet setting lifestyle.

“Like me, this collection is African through and through,” says Nomzamo. “It is an ode to the very family and clan that I come from. My grandmother has always pushed me to open my eyes to the world and know that each of my dreams is attainable. She taught me how to stay humble but sassy, and how to love and accept myself, how to remain true to who I am, and most importantly: where I come from. That’s exactly why this collection couldn’t have been called anything other than Shandu. It is a tribute to my family and clan, and a thank you to them for helping me break barriers.”

The first collection, which was released in March features soft pastel hues and sorbet colourways embezzled with an African-inspired print. The range features a Bomber Jacket (R2 499) and Jumpsuit (R2 299), Nomzamo’s favourite two pieces, as well as the Starlet Sandal (R449), First Flip (R229), Top (R649), Cropped Tees (R999), Shorts (R899) and Headband (R599).

Nomzamo is also taking part in PUMA’s new She Moves Us campaign, led by global pop superstar Dua Lipa, which calls on women to inspire one another and take control of and change the global narrative.

Shop the range, here.

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MAXHOSA AFRICA, the pioneering South African fashion label helmed by designer Laduma Ngxokolo, has opened a luxurious store in Cape Town.

Since its early days in 2010, the MAXHOSA AFRICA brand has been on a stellar trajectory, rapidly developing into a local design powerhouse.

Now, with the recent launch of a space at the Victoria Wharf shopping centre (a sister store for the existing flagship at Johannesburg’s Mall of Africa), founder Laduma Ngxokolo is taking MAXHOSA to a new level.

Located in the upper mall, MAXHOSA Cape Town ramps up the luxury offering of the Joburg store. Featuring sleek chrome rails for the brand’s signature fashion pieces, and wall-to-wall MAXHOSA carpeting handwoven in KwaZulu- Natal, the space is a brilliant blend of colour and pattern that takes its cues from traditional beadwork and Ndebele graphics.

“We went all out because we wanted to tell a strong story to the Cape Town market, which is an important audience for us as a brand,” Laduma says. “It isn’t the same as Joburg. We wanted to speak to the tourists, to visitors from all over Africa – and we also wanted to tell a story to the Cape Town natives.”

One of the standout elements of the space is a piece by artist Nelson Makamo, whose reputation continues to expand in international art circles. The work has also been reproduced as a woven collaborative piece with MAXHOSA.

“About two years ago, Nelson and I discussed doing a collab,” says Laduma. “We decided to drive to the Lesotho mountains to meet with the best weavers in the country, who work with 100% mohair. Nelson brought a template of the artwork to them, and we ended up working with a single person to realise it. The finished product arrived in Cape Town eight weeks later. When Covid-19 arrived in March, Save A Business approached us to help them raise funds. So we auctioned the piece, and it raised R690 000, which was then donated to save small businesses.”

The designer says the response from Capetonians to the new space has already been fantastic – which bodes well for the latest phase of this inspiring South African success story.

For more information, visit maxhosa.africa.

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Local apparel and accessories brand Mami Wata (previously featured here) is a celebration of African surf culture. Not only did it recently release a brand-new collection, it also launched The Elbow Project, aimed at uplifting surf businesses impacted by the current crisis.

Until the end of April, The Elbow Project sees Mami Wata donate 100% of the profits made from the purchase of any Mami Wata item on its website donated to grassroots African surf entrepreneurs, including Cebo’s Surf Report in Durban, The West Factory in Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire and Apish Tshetsha Surf Coach and Tour Guide in Cape Town.

Mami Wata’s new collection consists of T-shirts, sweatshirts, shirts, caps and shorts, all featuring bold, graphic prints with imagery. “This season we’re showing a strong roll out of brand graphics, icons and new, surf-inspired patterns,” says co-founder Nick Dutton. “Sometimes classic. Sometimes funny. Always inspired by Africa and African surf culture.”

For more information and to shop online, visit mamiwata.surf.

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